Never repeat a success they said. It won’t be the same they said. Well, I went back to Arlberg, Lech to be specific, for a second time in February 2025. My first time there was February 2024 and it ended up being the best ski trip I had ever taken. Powder was plentiful and was being replenished every day it seemed. So why not repeat a success like this by going again this year? Well, this year was different. Much different. But in some regards it may just have been even better..
Like last time, I again signed up for a week with the freeride groups that Stefan at Guide and Ride puts together for the last two weeks of February. But much unlike last year, this year it didn’t snow for the entire week I was there. I arrived in Lech on a Saturday and the day before it had snowed about 30cm or so and all the obvious powder was pretty much tracked out by the time I started skiing on the Sunday. With that, the whole week became a ski touring trip around the Arlberg region to find powder. And ski tour we did.. What bliss it was to ski-tour through the Arlberg range. It’s easy to forget that you’re in the middle of one of the largest ski resorts in the world when you hike for a bit and all of a sudden can’t see another human around and you're surrounded by nothing but spectacular mountains and untracked snow. As busy as parts of the Arlberg can get, the vastness of the area, especially for those willing to hike a bit, provide untracked snow for days and days after a good snow fall. I stayed in Lech, but our ski tours took us all across the range as we stopped by Zurs, Stuben, St Anton, Langen, etc, etc. The scenery is insane. The weather in Arlberg is also usually really good (it certainly was when I was there). And the Arlberg powder is some of the best snow quality I have ever skied. As with most things in life, powder too feels even better when you have to work for it it turned out. The first couple of days we’d hike for an hour or two to find the good stuff. After that the hikes got longer. And then even longer. The terrain and environment became more desolate. And the scenery became even more beautiful. One of the last days we were out 9 hours including about 7 hours of climbing. Our guide Stefan had promised us an epic tour, a promise he certainly made good on. Despite it being a solid 8 days since the last snow fall, fresh powder yet again greeted us for our descent once we had reached the peak. All the hours of climbing had again been worth it.
In some sense my 2024 trip to Arlberg was almost cheating: lift accessible fresh powder just about every day and nothing to worry about aside from staying safe and warm. This year I arrived in Lech with a bit of a somber mood as there was nothing but sunny skies and now snow in the forecast. But my mood quickly improved once I discovered the magic of ski touring through Arlberg. Towards the end of the week my mood was nothing short of ecstatic. Between the scenery, the wonderful people in the touring groups, the good conversations, the gorgeous weather, the long hikes in search of powder, and the well-earned long descents in Arlberg powder I honestly think I enjoyed myself more this time than I did last year. And I think my waistline did too..
In some sense, this year kind of cemented Arlberg for me as one of my favorite places to go and I will definitely be back. If the powder is fresh, then ski it. If it’s not, why not enjoy one of the most gorgeous places on earth one step at a time on a ski tour? And please strongly consider a guide to ensure you stay safe as you navigate the vastness of the Arlberg range.

Check out the video too for some of the highlights from the ski touring week
See our video here

With have skied the Ski Arlberg region many, many times over the past seasons and the more we do, the more we recognise it is without doubt one of the world’s best snow-sports destinations (if not THE world’s best). The dependability of snow, the many vibrant villages, the incredible lift system, the long pistes & groomed ski-routes, immense lift-accessed backcountry & ski-touring options plus an exceptionally great value lift pass price (on a world scale), put it firmly in the upper echelons of the ski world. That it has a major train station (two in fact) on the line between Zurich & Innsbruck, plus some of the greatest après ski sessions on the planet, just add further to Ski Arlberg’s allure.

We skied here on two separate multi-day visits in 2024. Once in peak season during February, and again in March. On both occasions we stayed in Lech. Why here and not St Anton, Zurs, Zug, Warth, Stuben, St Christoph or elsewhere? Two reasons, one was meeting up with some local partners (based in Lech) to ski backcountry, and two, Lech is beautifully situated to connect with everywhere else in Ski Arlberg. Its location (along with Zurs - our absolute preference) is prime for alot of the best backcountry terrain exits too.

In part by chance, and a little by design, both visits had us lodging in accommodation located in the discreet part of Lech on the Rüfikopf side of the village near the medical centre. There are loads of well-priced lodging options in this quiet sector of town, and it is still just a short stroll to nearly every ski lift base in town. I was quite lucky to score a last-minute room at the boutique Alpenland Hotel. Such a wonderful atmosphere, gracious hosts, lovely guests & fine dining. Couldn’t recommend it more highly. Good luck getting in though. Second time round accommodation options were a little more limited and I opted for the Lech Hostel. Prior to staying here I didn’t even know there was such a thing as a hostel in Lech. That’s the best kind of research possible! Shared bathrooms, but quiet respectful guests, and the chance to self-cater in the small, shared kitchen was great for a few nights booked at the last minute. Whilst in Lech I dined (& drank) at the wondrously traditional Hus Nr.8 Restaurant & Bar. The staff, food, drink & atmosphere is excellent, and I am ever thankful to them for accommodating me when they were actually booked out. I love it when ‘winging it’ pays off!

The terrain at Ski Arlberg is simply sensational. The over 300km of pistes are just the tip of the iceberg. Hundreds of kilometres of marked ski routes & backcountry runs are why we come this area. Much of the backcountry is lift accessible or via short boot-packs or skinning ascents. Once tracked out, it is not difficult to go a little further and find unsullied snow. Everyone should get a certified mountain guide at least once and do a descent from the highest lifted point of the region - the 2,811m Valluga. You cannot ascend the final cable car to Valluga summit with skis/snowboard unless in the company of a certified mountain guide. You can however ascend to the summit by boot-packing all by your lonesome! The Valluga is just one of a multitude of backcountry alpine peak options to ski fresh powder. Whilst having a mountain guide can ease your way into these areas, anyone with the nose for finding good snow can work it out, but with a guide the thinking is done for you - a definite benefit on a short ski holiday. The quieter sectors of the region such as Rendl & above Stuben, also have some fantastic backcountry skiing. For example, from the top lift above Stuben (Albonagrat), a short skin will give you long descents all the way to the train station at Langen-am-Arlberg (more on that below…).

Aside from the incredible terrain, it is the lift system that truly makes Ski Arlberg a success. There are 85 major ski lifts. A few years ago the game changing installation of gondolas linking St Anton to Zürs, and Lech to Warth Schröcken fully interlinked the region. Since then, many of the older double & triple chairlifts have been steadily replaced with 10-seat gondolas or high speed 6 & 8-seater chairs. Access to linchpin locations like Schindler Spitze in St Anton is so good now. The final few older chairlifts (particularly around Lech) are slated for replacement in the coming seasons. A lift to fully connect the isolated village of Schröcken (1,269m) into the ski area will not only add skiable terrain to the resort but will also increase the region’s skiable vertical (ironically due to the villages lower elevation than St Anton!).

Checking out the region’s most recent lift upgrades was part of my mission on these visits, including looking at the new Zugerbahn gondola that traverses over the hamlet of Zug, and the newer Albona I out of Stuben. A massive change in the lifting capacity, replacing tediously slow double chair with 8 &10-seater gondolas is future proofing done ‘in extremis’. The meeting point of several ski routes, winter walking trails & cross-country ski trails, Zug feels like a world away from the rest of the Ski Arlberg. It is a place for anyone seeking splendid isolation, but still within a short bus ride of Lech. There are numerous fine lodging options, all located such that one can ski from them down to the gondola base in the morning. During the day, the café at the Stäfeli is a lovely, friendly place to have a break. Note though that it is a long walk up the hill from the gondola lift base, so probably only an option if coming into Zug on the bus, or skiing in down ski route #178.

The new lift at Stuben improves movement & comfort in this under-rated part of Ski Arlberg. A lovely village with some fantastic accommodation (both modern & traditional, Stuben is a gold mine for all Powderhounds. Whilst the current trail map doesn’t show it, a massive picture in the window of ‘Herbert’s Dorf-Laden’ of the Arlberg ski trail map from the year 1960, shows the tremendous potential of the area, including many super-fun, easy to get to freeride descents from Albona & Maroi that include down to Langen-am-Arlberg, St Christoph & Rauz. And that highlights the real strength of the Arlberg. So many options, so many ski routes, so many villages, and all interlinked by ski lift & bus.

Having said all of the above, Ski Arlberg can at times be a victim of its own success. Its main issue is overcrowding on pistes and the subsequent damage that entails. Whilst not a problem everywhere in the ski area, trails that are part of the ‘Run of Fame’ and many of the village trails back into Lech & St Anton can most definitely be a challenge for beginners & intermediates as the day progresses. Overcrowding issues are common to parts of all the world’s best ski resorts, so such a problem is not a dealbreaker. As for all the most popular ski resorts, when skiing them, manage the crowds by starting early, avoiding peak holiday periods, go out when the weather is poor (the sun attracts the crowds), and visit mid-week. One wonders though how long it will take before the region absolutely reaches its carrying capacity.

The big questions about this ski region tend to circle around ‘where to stay’. In short, the answer is it doesn’t really matter and given its popularity you may not have much of a choice. Why it doesn’t matter is simply because aside from Warth & Schröcken, you can get everywhere from anywhere quite conveniently by ski lift or bus. I say aside from Warth & Schröcken because if you miss the final gondola heading across from Lech at the end of the day (and you don’t have skins!), getting back to your accommodation in Warth or Schroecken is a massive, costly mission. I witnessed the forlorn pleas of stranded skiers in Lech at 5.30pm wanting to return to Warth, only to be told the road is closed in winter and the lifts don’t open until morning. Ooops. That’ll teach them for having a few too many après ski bubblies at Lech.

But if you are wondering what each village has to offer, here’s my short spin on each:
• St Anton - Large, lively, with its own train station and the region’s best mountain huts for wonderful food, drink and après ski fun. Can feel crowded at the start & end of the day. Accommodation options are huge, but most are priced at the upper end of expectations in Austria. Its relatively low elevation (1,300m) means it sometimes doesn’t have snow in town.
• Lech - Higher elevation & more snow-sure than St Anton, it is a large village with masses of high-quality accommodation and a more refined vibe. It retains many traditional elements. There are still cow barns in the centre of town and the heady scent of bovines is a welcome reminder of the real reason for these places existence. Expect to pay more than St Anton, but you will sleep soundly.
• Zürs - A super, snow sure location in the alpine zone (the second highest village in the region at 1,716m), Zurs is where we would stay every time we visit if we could afford it (and there was availability!). Wonderfully connected to the rest of the ski area & the exit point for many a backcountry adventure. Uncrowded skiing early in the morning before the Lech & St Anton crowds arrive. Strangely quiet after dark as everyone settles into their dinner, but we don’t mind that. Still has the scent of dairy cows on the fringes.
• Stuben - Great accommodation in a fine location easily accessible from the train station at Langen am Arlberg. The village centre is petite but has all the basics covered. Doesn’t get a lot of sun in winter but is free of the masses of humanity found in Lech & St Anton.
• St Christoph - Splendidly situated in the alpine zone just below the Arlberg Pass, St Christoph is small, isolated in a storm, and with just a handful of ski-in ski-out hotels & pensions. AS the highest village in Ski Arlberg (1,800m) it is absolutely snow-sure, with a weird mix of local novice terrain that is great for beginners (assuming the weather is favourable) and some hardcore expert terrain. The chairlift up gets one to the heart of St Anton’s best terrain ahead of the crowds, and the return trail to the village is an easy beginner run from Galzig. Well connected to St Anton & Zurs by bus after hours.
• Warth - A very snowy village (deepest snowfall in the region) with some excellent accommodation that sits a little awkwardly on a mountainside below the imposing Karhorn peak. Feels too spread out to be truly convivial. A lively après ski peters-out to being very quiet after hours. Is not the easiest place to get to. Its location on the fringes of Ski Arlberg is both a blessing and a curse. Miss the last lift across from Lech at the end of the day and you are in deep trouble! • Oberlech - Perhaps technically part of Lech, Oberlech has wonderful ski-in ski-out lodging overlooking Lech and the mountains toward the Valluga. Gets the early sun in winter, but all services are down in town. • Stubenbach - Another satellite village a few minutes’ drive from Lech, Stubenbach is on the road to Warth (which is closed in winter), and so provides very quiet, more affordable lodgings. Free bus connections to Lech are excellent throughout the day & night.
• Zug - Delightful mountain valley location just a short free bus ride from Lech, this is the place to stay if seeking quiet lodgings in a traditional setting. A range of hotel & guesthouse options , all with half-board to make life easy. Wonderful winter walking & cross-country trails complement the downhill ski routes int to the village. Doesn’t get a lot of winter sun so is perfect for lovers of the cold …… mmmmm we love the cold!
• Schröcken - Small & isolated from the ski area but with a lovely traditional vibe. It is a haven for locals in the know but won’t truly be viable for international guests until a new gondola connects it to the ski area.
• Pettneu & St Jakob - Quieter satellite villages of St Anton, they provide a range more affordable accommodation than its larger neighbour and are reasonably well-connected to the ski area by free local bus, particularly to the Nasserein gondola.

If you want to ski here, but aren’t fussed about staying overnight, get a rental car and doss wherever you like toward Innsbruck or the side valleys. If the weather is not too feral, the drive is easy to St Anton, St Christoph, Alpe Rauz or Stuben to start your day, although parking is probably best at Alpe Rauz. If staying on the Vorarlberg side toward Bludenz, the drive is a synch to Stuben or Alpe Rauz. For day trippers, Alpe Rauz is the best starting point as it allows for lift connections in multiple directions toward St Anton, Zurs or Stuben.

We spent a little bit of time in our preferred Ski Arlberg village - Zürs. A recent (& welcome) addition to the village is ‘Karls Craft Bier & Snacks’. Providing two of our favourite things (craft beer & delicious snacks), it is the most economical place to eat & drink in Zurs if you want a quick lunch or in the evening if you aren’t indulging in the local hotels’ utterly divine half-board dinner extravaganzas. Tasty wholesome food & good brews that won’t require you to sell a kidney to pay for it (this is Austria after all, not Switzerland, and I like having both kidneys!). Live music is often playing in the evening as well and the crowd can be quite lively. How very un-Zürs! As a transport hub in the centre of the ski region, Zurs is a fabulous place to stay for an extended period, and Lech is just a short free bus ride down the hill if you need anything from a larger town.

I could keep rambling on about this ski area but will just stop and say, ‘check it out for yourself’. You really haven’t skied until you have been to the Arlberg. It is the heart and soul of skiing and experiencing it may change you in ways you never understood possible.

You can see our thoughts on the pros & cons of the ski resort via the Ski Arlberg overview page. Alternatively, read about each individual ski area on the specific overview pages for St Anton (incl. Stuben & St Christoph), Lech, Zürs & Warth-Schröcken

See our video here

One could write reams of text about how good the Ski Arlberg region is, but perhaps its best just to keep it simple. The region is big, bold & so much fun for all lovers of powder skiing, rowdy apres ski & world class backcountry freeride.

Including the likes of St Anton, Lech, Zürs, Warth Schroecken & others, the Ski Arlberg region includes the very best Austrian ski resorts all interlinked by a fabulous lift system. Rightfully popular due to its incredible snow, terrain & villages, the region can occasionally suffer from overcrowding on the slopes. To the uninitiated, some of the lift lines & bumped-up groomers can be a problem, but to any in the know, avoiding the crowds is possible, and even easy.

The region's backcountry is absolutely stunning. Much of it is accessible via the ski lift system and with a little skinning or boot-packing is nearly endless. having a mountain guide can be a great way to get to know the possibilities, or just to find untracked powder when you think there isn't any!

We love staying in Zurs. It has the best balance of central location, ski-in ski-out, high altitude snow-surety, small but lively village and perfect accommodation with incredible half-board cuisine included (although usually at a price!). For the best apres ski, St Anton is the place. Quieter & more remote villages include St Christoph & Zug. Lech has a bit of the best of everything and is perhaps the best place to stay overall. On the northern edge of the region, Warth provides a different experience altogether, whilst Schroecken is not recommended until it is finally connected to the ski terrain by lifts, rather than bus.

We travelled to the region by car on this trip, including driving over Arlberg Pass to Stuben from St Anton, and then to Zuers via Flexen Pass and its long avalanche sheltered tunnels. In fine weather it was easy to do, however in snow we do wonder how it would be. Previously we have come to the region by train to St Anton and then bus from there to Stuben, Zurs & Lech.

If you love skiing & snowboarding but Ski Arlberg is still on your list of 'resorts not yet visited', then you haven't experienced one of the world's best destinations. Go soon.

See our video here