Tbilisi
Tbilisi is one of the best tourist cities in the world. The funtastic gateway to the eastern half of Georgia is worthy of a few nights stay on any visit to this intriguing nation and may indeed be the highlight of one's journey. The capital of Georgia is easy to get around, has loads of history, a meandering cluster of buildings & lanes perfect for wandering in the old town, some truly spectacular restaurants & bars, groovy boutique hotels & charming guesthouses. In a country that can be challenging at times, Tbilisi is a surprising oasis of the best of everything with a nicely scuffed edge!
Check out the Tbilisi city map below.
The largest ski resort in the country, Gudauri, is just a 2hr drive from Tbilisi, however the city can be used as a starting point or access to most of the country. From a skier perspective, the furthest point likely to be travelled is to Mestia (Tetnuldi et al) in Svaneti, an 8 hour drive on a good day (until they finish the new highway between Tbilisi & Kutaisi anyway)!
Things to do in Tbilisi
Aside from using Tbilisi as the gateway to go skiing & snowboarding throughout the country, the city itself is full of sights, tastes, smells & sounds that should be sampled before or after being in the mountains.
Stay & Wander
Sample life in the city by staying in the older districts of Tbilisi (Dzveli Tbilisi) between the river and the hills to the west topped by the fortress & the super-weird Mtatsminda Park Amusement Park. In parts shiny and new, but mostly crumbling and rustic, the old city is a chaotic mix of cobbled streets, awkward footpaths, horn tooting traffic, traditional tone bakeries, fantastic restaurants, elegant houses, incredible wine bars and surprises around every corner.
From our observations, dogs rule the lower city, cats reign supreme in the upper city. Most are quite friendly but perhaps wash your hands after scruffling them.
The city has several interesting outdoor markets that may interest visitors, with the best of them being the Art & Antiques Market, & Dry Bridge Flea market in and around the 9 March Park on the river. Elsewhere, shopaholics will find all sorts of local trinkets & clothing in everything from street stalls, tiny 'hole in the wall shops', to massive underground bazaars.
Tbilisi's looming Narikala Fortress looks better from below than it is from above, but having been first established in the 4th century, it is worth a quick wander. Being up there when the bells are rung provides some atmosphere to the crumbling ruin. Walk from the citadel up to the crest of the Sololaki hills past the gondola station and to the 20m tall “Mother of Georgia” monument which overlooks the city. Descend the stairs below and emerge in the Old town laneways where one can wander aimlessly for hours and find the city's best bars.
Eat
Sample all the wonderful food that this city has to offer. So much more than the kachipuri (a tasty bread ‘boat’ with a soft salty cheese & egg open filling) that so often symbolises Georgian cuisine. From a spicy chicken shwarma at a street vendor, traditional Georgian classics (khinkali, okhajuri, lobia etc…) from a multitude of affordable eateries, fabulous bread baked (shotis puri, k’ada, lobiani) from tone (ton-AY) ovens served out of tiny windows, or contemporary cuisine serving local ingredients with a modern spin at numerous, fabulous restaurants.
Best Restaurants. We stumbled upon some absolutely fabulous restaurants in Tbilisi, but by far the best was the newly opened (Feb 2023) Van Goghi restaurant in Mikhail Zandukeli St (Mtitsminda District). The food, cocktails, service and atmosphere were brilliant. And even though the neighbours hate it, we enjoyed. Near the Sulphur Baths, the unassuming Odo’s House serves up top quality local nosh and there is a very well stocked wine bar in the cellar below, which also happens to have the most interesting toilet in Tbilisi. Just open the cupboard door!
Drink
Sample cha cha (local strong spirit equivalent to a rakia, grappa or moonshine!) from street vendors, under the shelf at the local bakery or from high-end bars. From smooth drinking fruit , flower & chocolate flavoured varieties to clear, high strength fire water, cha cha is cheap and cheerful. It is also used as a base in many local cocktails.
Wine, wine and more wine. As the cradle of wine making, Georgian wine is amongst the greatest in the world. Opportunities to sample it in Tbilisi are many and varied. Cool wine bars & cafes are dotted throughout the city.
Best bar districts. The bars on Shalva Dadiani & Lado Asatiani streets in Old Tbilisi Rudeboy, Process (for cha cha-based cocktails, previously called EZO we think), Black Dog, Abragi (for Georgian craft beers) are all super. UK ex-pats will feel comfortable in the nearby, convivial Tipsy Bee Bar.
Where is Tbilisi Georgia ?
Tbilisi is the capital of Georgia and is located in the central east of the country. The gateway airport is Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport (TBS). Flights converge from most of Europe, the Middle East & Central Asia. Inside the airport terminal, the prices for food & beverage is absolutely outrageous. Outside the terminal, modern buses with very cheap fares will get you to the centre of the city efficiently. Alternatively if on a tour, one will likely be met & picked up by a driver. Anyone going independently can use our local partners listed below, or utilise the very handy GoTrip app to book a driver. We have used GoTrip often and found it to be trouble-free, but it does require paying the driver in cash. If you can work out how the use the metro train in Tbilisi, good luck. We couldn't work out how to get a ticket without paying out loads for a pass. Thankfully it is fun to walk everywhere in the city centre
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Tbilisi Accommodation
There so many great places to stay in Tbilisi that it is difficult to articulate in a few words. The best way is to simply define the best areas to stay in and point you in the direction of a few gems we came across. One of our favorite finds was the Hotel British House near the Rustaveli district. Anything in the 'old town' district bounded by Baratashvili St in the north, the river to the east, the fortress & hills to the south and Freedom Square to the west will be full of character & intrigue. Of course there are also some lux hotel offerings along Rustaveli Ave, but why stay in them when one could do it cheap & interesting in a quirky local guesthouse overlooking the city. The are loads of exceptional places to stay elsewhere in the city too, but try not to stray too far from the old town & river, as it has the most atmosphere. An exception to try is this ..... Unfound Door Design Hotel!
Search & book here for all Tbilisi accommodation.
More Reasons to Visit Tbilisi
Are you already in Georgia? Are you flying into or out of Tbilisi airport? Then why wouldn't you spend a few days and nights exploring this fantastic city. It is a phenomenal way to start &/or finish a trip to Georgia. In fact we think it is a highlight of any trip Georgian ski holiday.
Review
The Powderhounds visited Tbilisi several times in February & March 2023. We enjoyed its wonderful atmosphere, chaotic traffic, pedestrian friendly old town, fabulous food and drink, shopping, historic sites, plus eclectic mix of 'old world' Grand Hotels & contemporary accommodation. It is up there with the best tourist cities in the world. Click on the review link in the left column (or top of the page if on a mobile) to read the latest inciteful & droll postulations!
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