For all Skiers and Boarders, Zermatt simply m-u-s-t be on your bucket list.

I mean just for the iconic view of the Matterhorn alone, it's worth the trip. Your arrival into the village will be by an incredibly scenic, but probably crowded, train ride up the Mattertal from Visp (drive and park in Täsch if you really must) as the village is car-free. The village is quite large and spread out and there's not a lot of true "ski in/ski out" accommodation, but in Swiss style there are efficient transport options including frequent village busses and eye wateringly expensive electric Johnny cabs (try 20CHF, close to $40AUD in early 2026, for a 500m ride from the train station to Sunnegga funicular!). There’s some on mountain options for accommodation, mostly at Riffelberg (on the Gornergrat railway) but also a few in Findeln (where we stayed, a little alpine farming hamlet) and the highest being the Gornergrat hotel. Personally, we liked the isolation away from the buzz and crowds in the village so LOVED the ski in/ski out at 2000m in Findeln with to-die-for Matterhorn views.

The lift system is an incredible juggernaut of gondolas, cable cars, a train, a funicular and high speed chairlifts. You can catch the Gornergrat Bahn (cog railway) right from the middle of town to the top of the Gornergrat (over 3,000m). The ski area is split roughly in 3 (4 if you count Cervinia in Italy). 90% of the terrain is intermediate, there’s nothing, on piste anyway, that’s either super steep or very flat. On lookers left of the ski map is Sunnegga/Rothorn. In the middle is Gornergrat and on the right, Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (further right is Italy). The village is around 1700m and all the areas go well above 3000m, so you’ll get close to 1500m vertical in one run if you ski all the way to the village from the top. Sunnegga/Rothorn and Gornergrat are connected via lifts mid mountain so it’s easy to connect between the two, but between Gornergrat and Matterhorn is a steep glaciated valley so you can’t get from one to the other without going all the way to the base area at Furi at the southern end of the village.

The Sunnegga/Rothorn side is the quieter side of the three. Access is quick and easy on the underground Sunnegga funicular. If the weather is bad, it also has the most terrain below the treeline, but you’re not cheated on vertical - Rothorn tops out at over 3000m. A fair slice of the terrain is south facing, so can get a little baked in spring, but on piste will be fine right into April. There’s some great restaurants, particularly in Findeln.

Gornergrat is the most easily accessible part of the ski area, you can either take the train (ultra scenic, but probably crowded in the morning from sightseers as well as skiers) from the station or gondola from Furi, changing to the train at Riffelberg or Gifthittli lift. This is a great area for kids and beginners as it’s mostly wide open, mellow runs. You can get here from the Sunnegga side by taking the Findelbahn lift up and skiing down to Riffelalp and getting the train or take the ‘build it and they will come’ monster gondola from Gant to Hohtälli. From the top of the Gornergrat (Grat=ridge in German) you have great views of the surrounding 4000-ers as well as the north facing ‘glacier country’.

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, skiers right on the map, tops out at a lung busting 3,883m. This is definitely the busiest side of the mountain, but after you get through the morning traffic jam going up changing to the cable car at Trockener Steg, there’s enough terrain and runs so it won’t feel too crowded. It’s possible to ski from the Klein Matterhorn, uninterrupted for almost 2000 vertical metres, down to Cervinia in Italy. You can get a longer run, almost 2300m vertical down to Valtournenche at 1500m, but you will have to take a (short) lift ride on the way. Save yourself a month in mortgage payments and get lunch while you’re there. Don’t have too much wine and miss the last lift up to get back though! Check the weather forecast also, these upper lifts get way more wind than the valley and it’s not unheard of for tourists to get stuck in Cervinia for the night when the link between the Italian side and Swiss side closes due to the weather (or you miss the last lift - you won’t be the 1st!), if there’s a storm it might close for a few days.
The lift pass is Europe’s priciest, in spring 2026, we paid around $180AUD (including the ski-to-italy option) per day, though they do have ‘dynamic pricing’ i.e. $$$$$ when it’s busy. To put that in perspective, most Aussie lift tickets are around $250/day.

In terms of snow, this is actually a (relatively) low snowfall area of the Swiss alps. This region is shielded by other mountains to the north. Other areas, such as Andermatt and Grindelwald, get the brunt of most of the storms and hence have higher snowfall. Don’t worry though, there’s usually more than enough snow here and the high altitude (village 1700m, Klein Matterhorn 3800m) means the snow stays in pretty good condition. You actually don’t want massive snowfalls here as it really limits lift operations due to avalanche danger. With a 50cm dump, you’ll hear avalanche bombing echoing around the valley and it’s unlikely much more than the Sunnegga funicular and Findelbahn will open for the day. The season is long, you can ski on the glaciers next to the Klein Matterhorn right through summer. If the snow conditions favour it, the off piste is not super popular with the glam ‘glühwein in the sun late morning’ crowd, so sniff out the good terrain in the sunshine and then get up early on a powder day and you’ll probably get lots of untracked snow to yourself.

In addition to skiing, there’s a large network of winter hiking paths and 2 toboggan runs if you’d like some variation. For the toboggan runs, take the Gornergrat railway to Riffelberg, hire a toboggan there and then get the train to Rotenboden (1 stop) and ride back to Riffelberg.

For ski tourers, the sky is the limit, you are in 4000er country! You can get some great vertical advantage with the lifts and with a short tour, ski right down to the valley for not much effort. In good snow conditions, by way of example, you can tour off Rothorn and ski all the way down to Täsch. Get a guide.

Eating out recommendations are Whymperstube in the village for traditional Swiss. On mountain, pretty much any restaurant in Findeln (there’s half a dozen to choose from, highlight is Chez Vrony, but good luck getting a table), Fluhalp, Grünsee, Stafelalp and Testa Grigia on the Italian side. Make sure you try fondue, raclette (another variation on melted cheese) and a “Walliser Teller” / “Assiette Valaisanne” which is a platter of local dried meats and mountain cheese with bread. The local Swiss Rhone valley wines are amazing and highly underrated.

MUST DO:
1. Take the lift to the top of Matterhorn Glacier paradise (Klein Matterhorn) and ski to Italy for lunch. Order Polenta alla Valdostana or Fonduta (I hope you like melted cheese in both cases!) and a glass of Prié Blanc or Malvoisie (local white wines) for the proper Valle d’Aosta experience.
2. Chez Vrony in Findeln for lunch on the sundeck with Matterhorn view (you and the rest of Zermatt btw so either book WAY, like months, in advance otherwise take your chance and go off peak on the day). It’s pricey, but worth it. There’s a $60AUD Burger, eeek, it’s great though.
3. Take Gornergrat Bahn all the way to the top and race the train down. Stop in Riffelberg for a glühwein.
4. Lap the Tuftern-Rothorn gondola for solitude combined with decent vertical, Rothorn has the same incredible view of the Matterhorn but nowhere near the crowds of sightseers as Gornergrat, so it’s possible so savour the view in relative peace. When you’re done, ski down to the village via Riedweg (piste 2/2a) and stop at the expensive (duhhh, it’s Switzerland) champagne bar on the way.

Top Tip: Get an apartment, not a hotel.

Secret tip: Get the same iconic Swiss mountain views, skiing and experience at a lower cost without the crowds and overpriced shops but also with a real local feel in the neighbouring valleys (Val d’Anniviers or Saas Fee).

Best time of year: Early spring = longer days, not quite as cold, high elevation means snow should still be good and less crowds.

TLDR: Iconic ski resort, incredible jaw dropping scenery, massive vertical with impressive lifts, good snow quality due to high elevation, great mountain restaurants, extremely pricey, busy.
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During a ‘low tide’ pre-Christmas visit in December 2025, Zermatt still had the goods. Breathtaking, fun & long pistes, some wind-blow powder, & empty on the slopes.

Being able to ski at a serious pace top to bottom on piste over a 2,300m vertical is extraordinary anyway, but being able to do it after a sustained mild & dry period is exceptional. And despite the village seemingly heaving with humans, the lifts & slopes for the most part felt deserted.

We checked out a few of the newer lifts in the ski resort like the 8-seater chair serving the popular beginner terrain above Riffelberg, and the gondola serving the incredible terrain out wide of Rothorn. Fancy gondolas and high-volume chairs are becoming the absolute norm here which keeps any lines to an absolute minimum. And despite skiing Zermatt many times before, even skied a couple of pistes we have never done previously. One of them was a highlight - the #61 from Schwarzsee running magnificently down a ridge pointing toward the village way, way below.

On this visit there were parts of Zermatt that looked like a desert hellscape, even in the upper alpine where the wind had clearly caused havoc. Regardless there was still so much skiing here, just mainly on the piste! Wind-blown untracked snow was found though and skied below Gornergrat, the north side of Rothorn and out wide from Furggsattel, satisfying our powder addiction for a few more days!

When in Zermatt we always enjoy skiing alongside the train down from Gornergrat to just before Riffelberg. The skier will always win by a fair margin, but it is still fun and good for a photo opportunity if with someone that hasn’t done it before. On this occasion the piste next to the train line hadn’t been groomed, and even though marked as ‘closed’, was a super fun powder run down to Riffelberg.

In the afternoon, we enjoyed the Iglu-Dorf outdoor bar. The hotels rooms are super for something different too. Further down, the popular slopeside Hennu Stall had a good vibe (wish they had beer on tap though and not just bottles!) and there are alternatives aplenty - some more casual than others (avoid the ridiculous champagne bars like Alphitta)!! Be careful where you park your skis out the front of Hennu and remember that the short ski back into town can be fairly hectic after a few brews. For afterwards, Harry’s Ski Bar was always grooving as the light faded.

Zermatt is not a cheap place to ski & stay, but it can still be done affordably. There is usually affordable accommodation in the town, or down at Tasch. We stayed in a fantastic hotel at Visp on this occasion (as we were heading to Italy by fast train afterward) for a very cheap rate. Whilst there are some fine restaurants on the hill, avoiding eating at them will save you a pretty penny too. However, regardless of the cost, this extraordinary place should be skied at least once in your life. And skiing here when there is off-piste powder is just a bonus. Also, while you are in the region, for contrast and to support the lesser-known ski areas of the Valais, spend a few days in Saas Fee, and one or two of the smaller local ski areas like Unterbäch, Lauchernalp or Leukerbad.

See our thoughts on the resort’s pros & cons via the Zermatt overview page.

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We skied Zermatt in the last 2 weeks of January 2025. We chose that period of time because the best info we could find indicated it was a somewhat less crowded time to be in Zermatt (do your homework on that issue). We did have high expectations after all we had read so off we went. Getting to Zermatt from Genvea airport was just too easy. One train change and 3.5 hours later we were in Zermatt. Zermatt is equally or more scenic than we expected. Many traditional chalets and many modern versions also. We chose accom based upon proximity to the main gondola in town which workerd wonderfully and got us to the bulk of the ski terrain. Zermatt has longgg wide groomed pistes, many of the runs are many kilometres long and of a steep grade. Fun! The infrastructure, gondola, cable cars and chairlifts is of the highest standard and very inpressive. The on mountain restaurants are of a high standard. From the highest point of Zermatt you can ski down to the Italian town of Cervinia, a must do ski destination. All in all Zermat is a great ski destination and even if you only do it once, it should be skied. The entire package (Zermatt) is fantastic. Don't forget the Matterhorn, a fantastic visual feature of Zermatt.
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There is a one reasonable question to ask before visiting the ski resort with Europe’s most expensive lift pass. Is skiing at Zermatt worth the price? In short, yes, it is. Zermatt is simply worth every cent. It has the ultimate wow factor. (including, ‘wow, that’s expensive’ 😊)

On this trip I only visited for one day midweek in March with a small group that were visiting for the first time. I was keen to see what they thought of the region. Needless to say they were suitably impressed.

Visiting the region from the Swiss side, we paid 102CHF each for a single day lift pass that did not include the train up from Tasch or the international crossing into Cervinia. Whilst that’s far and away the most costly pass in the entirety of Europe, it’s what one gets for the price that blows the mind. One a windless, sunny day we enjoyed the skiable vertical of well over 2,000m, untracked off-piste powder up high on the glaciers, incredible lift infrastructure, perfect pistes, no lift lines (with the exception of one crowded sector where everyone was heading over to Italy), awesome food & après ski plus those unbelievably breathtaking views across one of the world’s most iconic landscapes. On top of all this, with a little bit of fresh snow the scope of the resort’s off-piste terrain & backcountry is incredible as well.

Taking the train up to Gornergrat is almost the perfect start to an on-piste ski day. Chasing the train down with the Matterhorn as the backdrop is just about as good as it gets on a groomer. From the top of the resort on Kleine Matterhorn (Matterhorn Glacier Paradise!) off-piste lines between the cliffs & glacier crevasses allow one to avoid the masses on the extremely popular piste. Off the chair at Furggsattel, traversing out wide to skier’s left will usually reap some powder turns. The Hirli chair is one of our favourites. No crowds, long skiable vert and great powder in the shadow of the Matterhorn. The Blauherd/Rothorn sector proved quiet too, and it is there that we finished our day.

We lunched in the sun at the Käsestube Furgg, sited beautifully in the valley between Trockener Steg & Schwarzsee. Try the burgers from the grill on the deck – delicious. Spinat Knödels from the kitchen inside were woeful (frozen inside – yuk).

There are loads of opportunities for après ski drinks as you descend the mountain. The best options are the busy ones in and around Furi on pistes 41 & 50, or our preference on the valley trail below Sunnegga on the quiet piste 2/2a.

Settling in on the warm, sunny deck of Ottmar’s Skihütte gazing up to the Matterhorn is one of the better après ski experiences going round. We were well lubricated for the final ski down to the bottom of piste 2/2a. The trail ends well above the village, but of course there is an elevator to take you down into the tunnel linking to either the Sunnegga funicular or out to the free ski buses. That’s what you are paying for. An excellence of experience that whilst common in Europe, is elevated to the next level in Zermatt (pun intended).

At the start of any day, the village and locations up the mountain like Trockener Steg (where on fine weather days loads of people try to get up the top to travel across to Cervinia) can feel busy & overcrowded. In reality, the masses disperse quickly and the pistes away from the zone above Trockener Steg are generally quiet and with no lift lines. Start early and stay out wide!

At the end of the day, care needs to be taken on the valley trails as some of them can get quite tricky after lunch (even for intermediates). If in any doubt at all, put away your ego & download on a lift to the village!

For a more affordable visit to the region, stay down the valley at Tasch, or across in Italy at Cervinia or Valtournenche, or even Aosta. Lift passes are way cheaper when purchased from the Italian side, but you will get less time skiing the stellar Swiss side of the cross-border resort.

Whether you ski Zermatt for a single day, a week, or a month is up to you. But whatever you do, just ski it at least once in your life on a sunny day. It is absolutely incredible. And if by chance you have an IKON Pass, that 102CHF day lift pass will cost you nothing. Giddy up!

See more about the pros & cons of the ski resort on our Zermatt overview page.

See our video here

I admit I had preconceived ideas about what skiing Zermatt would be like based on the costs of staying, eating and skiing in winter. It is fair to say they were not positive. So it came as a surprise to find I had a fabulous time. Apart from a few choke points, Zermatt is so large that there generally weren’t that many people. There is the capacity to find fresh snow days after snowfall and there are options for everyone.
I will be going back.
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Oh my God. Massive, massive resort. Did 6,000m vertical in the first 6 runs! Highlights included: train rides, Kleine Matterhorn lookout, superfast groomers, burgers on the deck with Matterhorn as a backdrop, bluebird sunny day riding with the Matterhorn as a backdrop, apres ski beers on a terrace with the Matterhorn as a backdrop ....... you get the idea.
One day is definitely not enough. Could easy spend a week here......
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Great variation. Quite large, you need a week to explore. Hidden gems away from main trails. Huge vertical. Has it all.
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Awesome!

(Editors note - Says it all really!)
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In four days we were there( from 09 to 12.122021) only 15 lifts of 54 were opened.

Also if it was windy at the pass to Italy, one could have opened more lifts and departures on Zermatter side in the lee, in order not to annoy the guests.

And then the price you have to shell out for 4 days: 316 € for 15 open lifts in Zermatt.
For comparison in the same period 08 to 12 Dec: 189 € for 31 open lifts in Ischgl.

I was so far in the Kaunertal, Ischgl, Kappl, Galtür, Ötztal, Zillertal, Kitzbühl, Warth-Schröcken, Damüls and Oberstdorf and already in Zermatt to ski.
Everywhere except Zermatt they open all the lifts in the morning. If it is very windy, one or the other gondola is stopped briefly until the gust has subsided.
But Zermatt is quite different - they open only a few lifts in the morning and then wait to see how full the lifts are.

Such a thing is not possible in a place with such a reputation!
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Simply put, Zermatt lives up to the hype. It's easy to attach the terms world class & world's best to a ski resort when you have a big powder day. Its better when you can say it of a place when you haven't. We didn't have a massive powder day at Zermatt, but we still did ski powder & got to experience the best of the resort, all the while with our eyes being drawn with dropped jaws to surrounding glaciers & the amazing Matterhorn. We are happy to put 'world's best' in front of Zermatt for a few categories like: the train to the resort, the piste trails, off-piste & freeride terrain plus its extraordinary ever improving lift system.

Having said that, Zermatt isn't perfect. It can get overcrowded & the village is growing every year. Large areas of the resort are often closed in bad weather with the upper glacier particularly vulnerable to localised strong winds. Its not that child friendly. Lift bases are spread across a wide area & most of the learn-to-ski areas are up high in exposed positions - great in fine weather, not so great if its cold, snowing, blowing, white out or a dastardly combination of them all. The resort is also the most expensive in Europe. Still not as expensive as other continents, but still....

We do love Zermatt though. The mountain restaurants are sensational & the après ski options on the way down from Gornergrat via Furi are sensational all the way into town. The freeride terrain inbounds is awesome. Wind blown powder was untracked off the Rothorn & Rote Nase plus a few other spots that shall remain nameless to protect the vulnerable! (And a special mention to the extraordinary elevator shaft perched on the Rote Nase - wonder who thought that up & more to the point who approved it! Kudos to them!) The backcountry ski touring potential is endless. The village is vibrant & friendly even though filled with a high percentage of visitors that are more interested in how they look than anything else! We love the range of bars & restaurants too.

And in the end, even though it is the most expensive resort, in the most expensive country in Europe, it is still possible to stay & ski in Zermatt on a budget & have a fine old time.

Zermatt is an eye opening experience even for the most hardened campaigner. Save your pennies & spend a few days skiing here before you die. Would suck to miss out.

You can see our thoughts on the pros & cons on the Zermatt overview page and also see our European ski resort ratings regarding how we score it compared to other skiing areas.

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