I have been to the 4-Vallees (or parts of it) a few times now, and the more I go, the more my appreciation of the place grows. For good skiers & snowboarders, when the snow is deep, it is a true nirvana.
Inevitably in the world’s great ski areas, they become victims of their own success. Too many people, terrain getting tracked out too quick, crammed cable cars, no tables for lunch ……… you know what I mean. At times, 4 Vallèes suffers from that too. But if you time it well, get up early, go hunting out wide, there is so much to love about this huge, interlinked resort.
It is because of its size that you will always be able to find a place that suits your needs. Be it untracked larch glades, steep bowls, long super groomed pistes, or just a safe sheltered beginner area, the 4-Vallees can provide. Case in point, several days after the last snowfall, we skied gorgeous powder with just a short boot pack and traverse off the Etherolla lift. And we could have spent the day repeating the dose, by moving toward the flanks of Mont Rouge if we were so inclined.
A key to enjoying the place is understanding that the 4 Vallèes is more than Verbier. Anyone with the disposable cash can afford to do as they like, and so Verbier is an easy option. And far enough, it’s a great spot. But equally other villages are fantastic places to stay, and generally with less humans, and often with better terrain and conditions.
Sometimes, the 4 Vallees is best when you ski the outlying sectors like Bruson or Thyon. Getting to the top of Mont Fort isn’t necessarily that good from Verbier, but its very quick and easy from Siviez. Nendaz can be a super fun village AND has some incredible old growth larch forest skiing nearby, plus super terrain beyond that into Siviez. Veysonnaz can feel deserted. Its long trails into the village are sooo good in the early morning. Thyon’s ski lifts & terrain are amongst the best novice & beginner ski areas in Switzerland. And then the further you go out, or bootpack a little, untracked powder awaits. You get the drift…
From where we sit, the biggest issue with 4-Vallees (aside from too many humans in high season) is the ski lift links between Siviez and Veysonnaz-Thyon. They simply don’t stack up to what one finds throughout the remainder of the resort.
On this visit we visited midweek in January and stayed in Nendaz at the Hotel Edelweiss. A hundred metres from the gondola base, great meals, comfortable rooms, and a fantastic beer selection to go with the very enthusiastic après ski session that ended at an incredibly polite 8.30pm. Slumbered like a cherub.
Transport to Nendaz was the PostBus from Sion train station. As an international traveller there is no real excuse to have a car in Switzerland. Train & bus can get you most places with ease, and that certainly the case at 4 Vallèes.
I’m heading back here in season 2024 for sure. You should too. Just don’t get sucked into thinking that you have to stay in Verbier during the ‘high season’ in February, there are plenty of alternative times, dates & villages. And once you spent a week here, head into the adjacent Val d’Herens and cleanse your soul at Arolla-Evolene. You can thank me for it later.
Read more about the pros & cons of the resort on the 4 Vallees overview page.
We dipped our ‘toe in the water’ at 4 Vallees via a visit to Verbier in 2018. The possibilities are endless for off-piste shenanigans, but there is quite the crowd seeking the same thing. Finding the paths less travelled is the key & that means probably getting as far as away as possible from Verbier as well or getting a guide to get immediate access to local knowledge!
Whilst staying in Verbier is on many people’s bucket list, it is expensive & super-busy in the mornings. The lifts can be seriously crammed. The most efficient access to the best freeride zones around Mont Fort, Nendaz & Veysonnaz is from Siviez, where 3 lifts head in all directions. Staying in Siviez overnight isn’t easy, as the relatively limited number of apartments for rent are rightfully popular. But it is possible & worth it if interested in having the best opportunity at fresh tracks. It’ll be easier of your wallet too! just dont expect too much after hours action - Verbier is the place for that & your credit card will get a far workout.
Our fleeting visit to the 4 Vallees requires us to return for an extended period as soon as is humanly possible. There is so much to see & ski here that it will require a lengthy stay! Looking forward to it.
You can see our thoughts on the pros and cons on the 4 Vallèes overview page and also see our European ski resort ratings page regarding how we score it compared to other skiing areas.