In the vast pantheon of ski towns throughout the world that we have visited, it may come as a surprise that one of the best is in Germany at Oberstdorf. But on reflection, once one knows a little bit about the place, it makes complete sense.

Oberstdorf seemingly has it all, but with the possible exception of two things that we will discuss further down! It has a traditional low-rise town surrounded by mountains. A pedestrian-friendly centre with everything one could want without it being in any way overwhelming or too garish. Loads of fabulous beer halls (we do love a good beer hall) and other bars, plus ooodles of restaurants including some non-traditional-German/Bavarian diversity (i.e. Asian, Serbian, Italian, plus a few super healthy ones like ‘Just Bowls’). A massive array of accommodation to suit every possible style & budget. A train station in the heart of town with a legion of buses to get you where you need to be, including the region's six main ski areas. One ski area, Nebelhorn, even has its lift base in town (albeit on the edge). And so it goes.....

The one major thing that it could certainly do with in a warming climate is some altitude. Bummer on that score. At only 813m altitude, it can suffer at town level from a lack of snow during parts of winter. And that's a shame, because it is seriously gorgeous in a mantle of snow. Having visited twice last season (once at New Years Eve and once toward the end of February), we have seen both sides of the coin, including on the same trip. We rate snow at around 3 paws out of 5, mainly based on the snow up in the alpine zones of the main ski areas (including the associated Kleinwalsertal resort of Ifen), with the rider that whilst abundant snow at over 1,500m is fine, when you have ski runs all the way down to 813m, you need to have more natural snow. Noting of course that the snowmaking at the lower altitudes is quite good.

The other thing not going for it is how busy the general ski region can be on weekends and peak ski holiday periods. So in combination with a potential lack of snow down low, choose wisely when you visit and leave it to the last minute to ensure the best conditions.

We could rabbit on about the skiing close to Oberstdorf, but it is probably best to read the actual individual ski resort reviews via the overview pages: In Germany - Nebelhorn & Fellhorn; in nearby Kleinwalsertal Austria - Kanzelwand - Riezlern, Ifen & Walmendingerhorn-Heuberg. We never skied the third German ski area, Söllereck, because it was of little interest to us and is too low elevation. From what we saw, it would however be good for progressing beginners if the snow is good. The bus from Oberstdorf stops right at the gondola.

In summary, for skiing we would revisit Nebelhorn (great for non-skiers too if the cable car is open to the summit), Ifen and Walmendingerhorn. Intermediates will enjoy Fellhorn.

Oberstdorf has a fantastic array of accommodation. We stayed in several different places but enjoyed the huge apartment-style rooms at Hotel Rubihaus the most. Quiet location too, but within walking distance of everything.

Foodwise in town there are bakeries, bars & German/Bavarian restaurants aplenty. We enjoyed the Dampfbierbrauerei near the train station for beer, massive hunks of delicious pork & duck and its convivial atmosphere. To offset the pork, the natural food at ‘Just Bowls’ is so not German that your body may rebel against its cleansing flavours. And for something different again, the Thai Kim Asian restaurant serves tasty veggie-laden dishes that can be hard to otherwise come-by.

Getting around, we tried both main methods – public transport & rental car. First trip was by train from Feldkirch in Austria. One of the more fascinating railway journeys I have been on recently. First heading north and alongside the Bodensee, then a banking ride in an older-style, nimble 2-carriage train through the Bavarian foothills, before the final entry into Oberstdorf on a modern, but busy, passenger train. Walked to my accommodation but could have just as easy got a taxi or bus from out front of the station. During the stay I used the local buses to get around to all the ski resorts in both Germany & Austria. Whilst staying in Oberstdorf you will likely get a local guest card & ‘mobil pass’ to use all the buses on the German side. But if heading to the Austrian side on the bus, you do need to buy a ticket when you cross the border – a slightly painful experience indeed. I skied across the border from Fellhorn to Kanzelwand-Riezlern to avoid one bus ride! I departed Oberstdorf via an early morning train to Munich main station, meeting up with a colleague there. So public transport use to get here and away is a definite goer.

The second visit was with a rental car. Getting around was easy and quick but car parking fees apply just about everywhere (usually €5 for the day except at Nebelhorn where it is more expensive). We used the bus to ski the German resorts and drove to ski the Austrian ones to save time.

We enjoyed visiting Oberstdorf. It has a lot to offer even if the skiing is not perfect. Food and accommodation here are cheaper than in neighbouring Austria or Switzerland too. As part of a wider tour or if a last-minute storm-chase based on a forecast, it can work a treat. If seeking a serious freeride powder, European ski destination on a long-term plan, apply elsewhere!

See our thoughts on the region’s pros & cons via the Oberstdorf overview page.