As a destination ski resort, Karakol has a long, long way to go. However as part of a wider winter exploration of Kyrgyzstan, a visit here is absolutely worthwhile. On this particular visit it was the first stop on a journey that included horse-skiing (near Karakol ski area) & cat-skiing (at nearby Jyrgalan). So why not come along and ski in a 'stan'?
Getting to Karakol involves a long drive from Bishkek city centre or airport. It is a journey only recommended to be driven by those with extensive overseas driving experience. Most should hire a driver or be part of a tour. The trip is replete with seemingly never-ending roadworks. Why they have decided to rip up hundreds of kilometres of highway at once rather than concentrate on just completing a section at a time is beyond our powers of comprehension! And despite what the brochures may espouse, the scenery along the way was uninspiring to our well-travelled eyes. Shambolic architecture, and a surprisingly dry, desolate landscape. The ski resort has an entry gate which costs an unknown amount (as it was dealt with by our local driver & guide). Parking is leaning toward the challenging end of the scale, particularly when the road is a diabolical combination of rutted & glacierlike. Another reason to hire a local driver!
Just prior to our early February visit, the ski area received 20-30cm of very cold snow on a dubious faceted base. Not ideal, but certainly better than it would have been the previous week. The thin (ish) cover meant piste grooming was limited and parts of the off-piste were more challenging than they otherwise might be. Out wide from the highest lifted point, the amount of tracks in what remained of the powder equates to there being an enthusiastic freeride fraternity here, so don’t expect to have a powder day all to yourself! Suffice to say that with a good base and fresh snow, skiing here would be awesome, but that’s true of most places, isn’t it?
Ski terrain at Karakol is near perfect in its diversity - if it is all skiable! Just enough groomers for beginners down low (but be wary of the out of control utterly fearless locals learning to ski), higher up intermediates & better will be challenged on sheltered tree-lined, & some alpine pistes (perhaps the term ‘piste’ is an exaggeration …). Note that trails are rated as per non-European colours - (green, blue & black - no reds!). The grooming quantity and quality varied markedly from day to day so keep your expectations low. Off-piste there are skiable trees, wide open bowls and some more serious alpine couloirs etc accessible with a little bit of effort. Beyond the top lift there is apparently the option to use snowmobiles to go further up the mountain. Such a shame. Much of it is easily accessed on skis, with snowboarders need just a short walk. Skinning higher was considered but dismissed due to the fractious nature of the snowpack. Out wide all the terrain is funnelled back into the ski area by a semi-groomed snow-covered road that runs along the valley before entering the trees. It is super-fast & fun if no one is ahead of you. Again, skiers can do the entire exit with a little speed & effort, however snowboarders will likely need to unclip for two short uphill sectors.
The chairlifts include two triples & two doubles. Only two chairs are of value to reasonable skiers. Avoid the beginner triple down low. A mid-mountain double wasn’t running so was easily avoidable as well! The double up to the summit tends to start later in the morning, so don’t be too despondent if it is not turning straight away.
Note that despite what the trail map may indicate, skiing from the 3,040m summit is not easy, is not appropriate for beginners, and will be quite challenging for many intermediates. Perhaps in better snow cover, more grooming would improve the descent, but we are unsure. On of the quirks of the ski area is the sheer numbers of single track heading off the summit. See the photos to note how bizarre it actually is.
Food and beverage wise the ski area is a mixed bag. The new main restaurant near the base of the beginner area is poor. Food is ok but takes far too long to arrive, drinks are hit and miss, and the volume of the music is unnecessarily at ear-bleeding levels. The loud, coarse techno music mix is prevalent at most establishments in the ski area. Not sure who it is aimed at, or indeed, who enjoys it? Russians perhaps? Higher up the hill near the top car park (halfway along the beginner slope), the Brown café and a few other adjacent establishments are a better option.
At the highest lifted point, the welcoming sight of a splendid observation deck and café is quashed by the provision of expensive, dubious-quality drinks & snacks. The coffee is best avoided. Making a good coffee is not a strength in Kyrgyzstan, stick to tea! Toilets are not a strength here either. The one at the top of the resort barely meets the description of a toilet and is best avoided. As a sidenote, it will behove everyone to always carry a supply of your own loo paper too, not just at the ski resort but anywhere out and about.
Whilst not strictly in the ski resort, but is accessed via the resort entry gate, one of Karakol’s best experiences is horse-skiing. Yes, riding a horse up and skiing powder down. The tough horses are quite well-behaved and the stirrups fit ones ski or snowboard boots. Due to overhead branches in the lower sector, skis are carried across the saddle whilst snowboards can be placed across a backpack. The run down starts on an alpine ridge and descends between 600 to 800m vertical with just enough fresh snow & technicality to bring large amounts of joy and satisfaction. Certainly a unique experience that we will never forget.
Culturally, Kyrgyzstan is most certainly a fascinating place to visit, plus it is so very friendly & open for visitors. Observably one of the more ‘economically challenged’ of the central Asian stans, it is of some comfort to know that one’s tourist dollars contribute to their future prosperity. The nation’s nomadic herding roots are not always obvious but subtle signs are everywhere. Where else will you see horseshoes for sale in bulk at a local supermarket? English is not widely spoken, but it is reasonably well understood (if that makes sense to you!). Regardless, communicating with everyone is just like anywhere else in the world, and all the more easy in Kyrgyzstan due to the politeness, good humour and inquisitive nature of the locals. A smile, hand gestures and google translate works just fine! Learning a few local words is of course of great value. Getting an eSim isn’t a bad idea either.
Away from the ski resort, the city of Karakol provides just enough points of difference to be engaging for a few days. Food is a highlight. With influences from India & China, it is way more diverse & flavoursome than we expected. Numerous fantastic restaurants are present in Karakol. The main differences between many of them is their willingness (or capacity) to provide alcohol. Don’t be fooled by the drink menu! As far as alcoholic drinks go, avoid the restaurants and head to the best bar in town at The Hut, or closer to the city centre at Pinta.
The main shopping district of the city is worth a sticky beak, as is the shambolic-looking bazaar area where you can get a great haircut (yes, I got a haircut!), some street food, and local produce that may or may not be fresh! A quick visit to the various religious monuments is instructive too. Wandering the streets, many still with soviet era names, expect the younger locals to introduce themselves to you and practice their English.
We were surprised at the number of ski & snowboard rental locations throughout the city, in fact we lost count of how many there actually were. Whilst quality can vary, there was enough decent gear available to satisfy most needs if required (with the exception of touring gear).
Whilst there a few accommodations available at the ski area, we would recommend staying in the city. Karakol city has a wide variety of well-priced, good quality guesthouse & hotel accommodation. We stayed at the MONGU ‘mini’ hotel. A quiet location, the comfortable rooms all have fantastic ensuites. A passable breakfast taken on its covered rooftop terrace comes with requisite views across the city & mountains. It is however a no alcohol establishment (not a big deal), and before entering one needs to take off and leave outside shoes in an extremely cold entryway. Definitely pack some slippers in your bag and carry ski boots into your room to dry and warm up! Air quality in Karakol city can be quite poor in winter, so anyone with a serious lung disorder will potentially suffer in town.
I am going to openly admit that given the diminutive stature of skiing in Kyrgyzstan, some of the observations of Karakol outlined above may seem to be a tad pedantic and perhaps overly critical. However they are written to ensure eyes are wide open when visiting this region and to set a realistic level of expectation when skiing at this resort. Don’t take anything written above as a reason not to go. Skiing here on its day would be incredible. And we can safely say that a visit to Karakol & Kyrgyzstan is a fun adventure and well worth doing, even if one cannot get a decent coffee at 3,040m!!! 😊