Having just arrived back in Switzerland from a very warm week of exploration in Uzbekistan, we were hungry for powder, and thankfully Graubünden was about to deliver. I hadn't skied at Lenzerheide for many years but had very pleasant memories and one look at our photos from 2018 reinforced the notion that it had been far too long. As 40cm dropped in the first part of the storm, our trip to Lenzerheide from Zurich airport was worth the wait.

Extreme avalanche danger had an impact on the off-piste, but this is also where Lenzerheide shines (and why we came here this time!). The resort has more than enough diversity of terrain above & below the treeline (unlike Arosa) to allow off-piste powder skiing even on the sketchiest of days, and even if you do not know the hill very well. Aside from a few ‘sporty’ forays into steeper terrain to test out the real avalanche hazard, we spent most of our time on low-angle stuff in the trees either side of the Pedra Grossa chair, and then up higher in the fantastic mixed alpine terrain off the Scalottas chair. An easy-pickings bonus was piste #40 off the top of Piz Scalottas which was not groomed so safe powder skiing was available along that line all the way Tgantieni.

For February, with the eastern side of the mountain closed due to avalanche issues, I thought the crowd was quite good. A handful of busy pistes, but no lift lines and the vast off-piste was deserted. On the western side of the ski resort there are numerous linking pistes (55, 55a, 60, 73) that can be awkward in low visibility, particularly with beginners on the trails. The long (and important) piste 55/55a piste was very slow and the uphill sections obvious, causing a little more carnage.

Whilst some of Lenzerheide western side lifts are getting a little ‘mature’ by Swiss mega resort standards (Tgantieni & Pedra Grossa chairs are now 38 & 36 years old respectively), it was nice riding a few of the newer ones like the flashy looking Stätzertäli quad. Shame the only new lifts in planning stage for Lenzerheide are at ……… interlinked Arosa!!

Lunch is fast & delicious at the spectacularly located Piz Scalottas restaurant. Classic Swiss fare in lovely surrounds at reasonable-ish prices (given its location). There are plenty more places like it dotted throughout the hill.

The sheer breadth of lifts & terrain in the western sector of Lenzerheide can be quite confuzzling to those unfamiliar with the mountain. Much of it looks the same on gloomy days like during our last visit, so be careful to descend to the correct location toward the end of day. The free local buses can always rescue you, but it is always best to not end up in Churwalden if you are supposed to be at Crestas!

Lenzerheide village is a tad disappointing in our opinion, so we would rarely choose to stay there, but each to their own.

We think this region of Switzerland is absolutely fantastic for any powder hounds to spend loads of time. In stable snow and clear weather the terrain at Lenzerheide has it all. Add in Arosa and forays out to Davos, Tschiertschen, Brigels, Vals plus others, then you have an easy few weeks of world-class, diverse, Swiss skiing.

See our thoughts on the resort’s pros & cons via our Lenzerheide overview page.

See our video here

Lenzerheide - undecided about it. Skied the western side of the mountain whilst there was very high avalanche risk. Skiing on piste was great along some edges with good quality of snow, but challenging on some of the runs due to the volume of traffic, with several large groups creating inconsistent and ever moving challenges. Means not skiing the fall line, stopping and starting without situational awareness/consideration.

The off-piste had a heap of potential and was fun in deep snow, however there was a known/stated high avalanche risk, which was evident.

Another mountain I'd like to revisit in future if in the right place at the right time.
See our video here

Skiing with family at Lenzerheide keeps you busy easily for a week. We love the multiple terrain options, good food and easy access (if you have a hotel close to the slopes).
See our video here

It is a simple statement. Lenzerheide is one of the best ski resorts in Switzerland. Do we need to write more?

We should explain why. The reasons are many & varied, but it comes down to 2 basic factors - snow & terrain. Now one could suggest that all ski resorts' greatness can be measured solely on snow & terrain. True. But every ski resort has its strengths & weaknesses & will generally appeal to a part of the ski & snowboard fraternity, but not all. Lenzerheide will appeal to all.

Forget après ski, mountain huts, accommodation options, non-ski activities, ski lifts, price, family friendly et. Al. - at Lenzerheide all these factors are comparable to any number of upper echelon ski resorts in Switzerland, Europe & the world.

Snow wise, Lenzerheide is in a corner of Switzerland that gets one of the higher average annual snowfalls in Europe. But that's not all. With a variety of terrain aspects within the resort and a gargantuan amount of nooks & crannies to explore in the off piste, it is possible to ski powder for days & days & days after a snow fall. Let’s face it - that's what Powderhounds are looking for.

Combine the snow with the terrain and the combination pitches it above most other resorts in Switzerland & Europe. The terrain is on two opposite sides of the valley & faces vaguely northeast & northwest, providing midday sun to all slopes. It has all the elements of the perfect, well-rounded ski resort, allowing skiing & snowboarding in all weather & conditions. Loads of learn to ski zones either side of the sheltered valley. Fun, rolling beginner & intermediate piste trails in the sub alpine forest & high alpine zones. A few long, steeper advanced pistes. And then the off-piste.

Here is where everyone can progress & get their fix of powder or adventure off the groomed trails. Take your pick from gentle alpine bowls, light trees & meadows, steep trees & a series of of steep couloirs & chutes off the Parpaner Rothorn. We found the most diverse & enjoyable terrain combining all the best elements of the resort around the old Scallotas chair. The snow does get more sun baked on that side of the valley though. Best snow quality was in the steep shaded pitches anywhere off the Rothorn. The terrain around Churwalden should not be missed either. Most skiers do miss Churwalden & its resident untouched alpine powder. The Churwalden gondola is the resorts most modern addition too ,so one can connect to the rest of the resort in absolute comfort via its shapely cabins.

We journeyed to Lenzerheide via tow methods - the route 182 PostAuto bus from Chur & the Urdenbahn cable car from Arosa. The 182 bus is a quick & efficient service stopping at all the major lift bases & villages through Lenzerheide, all the way to Tiefencastel railway station in the south (some services even go to St Moritz via Bivio). The Urdenbahn connector from Arosa is a delight & provides a bird’s eye view of the backcountry route to Tschiertschen as well as access to the Arosa wide open sun-soaked terrain.

Lenzerheide's major drawback is its lack of integration between one side of the valley to the other & its widely spread accommodation. Local buses make up for both, but who really wants to catch a bus during a ski day unless it’s like the powder shuttle at Powder Mountain Utah! Only one lift links the resort at the north end of the valley.

Lenzerheide has everything & if it doesn't, the interlinked Arosa does. Powderhounds say put it on your list of 'must ski' resorts in the world.

See our video here