For several reasons I have vacillated over this review. In the end, the simplest way to summarise the Palandöken sector of Ejder 3200 is ‘a fascinating ski resort and region, with such wonderful possibilities, but quite a few hurdles as well.’
The main resort rises beautifully above the plain & city of Erzurum. With a highest lifted point of 3180m, long skiable vertical, modern slope-side hotels, reasonable lift system, super cheap lift passes and steep fall-line terrain on its post-volcanic flanks, Palandöken should be on the world stage as having the best value skiing in the world. But ….
Even though a ski resort of fabulous potential, Palandöken and Konakli were sadly lacking the one thing that brings it all together - natural snow. If fully open, it would probably be that wonderful, world-class ski destination described above. And it would not take much snow to make it skiable. During our brief stay, we found some fun powder stashes in the sidecountry without too much effort. And looking back at the terrain directly accessible from the ski lifts, another 30cm and it would have been 'game on'. But imagining it does not make it true.
For the main part, Palandöken is completely above the tree line and subsequently fully exposed to the extremes of weather. Tree skiing here is limited to the lower 'Hotels' sector of the resort, but getting to it wasn’t the easiest, and oddly, was not included in the standard lift pass. Ski lifts in the resort are ok without being extraordinary, but to be fair, we didn’t ride that many of them due to the lack of terrain open. The main gondola also seemed quite unreliable, constantly stopping without explanation.
Aside from the lack of snow, there are a few ways the resort could improve its offering, and they include the long-discussed linking of Palandöken and its neighbouring Ejder 3200 sector, Konakli. It could be done in the interim with a regular free ski bus and/or via marked ski touring routes but is close enough to be connected by ski lifts & pistes. Locals told us that the snow and terrain is better at Konakli. Also, for a resort with such a broad, and interesting off-piste zone (and in parts an associated high avalanche risk), the creation of several marked and controlled freeride ski routes, plus ski-touring routes (including an uphill route for skinning), would also increase its attraction. We will watch with interest if any of this ever occurs.
Other curious aspects of the resort include a compulsory helmet policy (same as Erciyes). Whilst I wear one so are not bothered by this, others in our party do not and were majorly bothered! It was enough to be carrying one on your pack, but it seems a nonsense. The ski lift passes are expensive for the locals, but quite cheap for international guests. The passes are measured on the number of rides on the lifts, not daily or half day, which can be needlessly confusing.
A taxi ride down from the resort, Erzurum is an intriguing city with several significant historic sites, divine food experiences and shopping. It is easy to comprehend that the sity is also one of the coldest places in Türkiye. Temperatures of -20 are common here. Near the centre, the 13th century Erzurum Çifte Minareli Medrese (Double Minaret Madrasa) is a symbol of the region and sits opposite an imposing Byzantine era kalesi (castle). Nearby are some wonderful shopping opportunities. Our host reckoned that the city also has the best Cağ & Döner Kebap in the country. We certainly could agree. My favourite was the Cağ Kebap, grilled on a horizontal spit over hot coals, with the price calculated by how many empty meat skewers are on the table. Shame we were shunted to a backroom of the restaurant, but that is another story (or perhaps you can guess why?). Another taste sensation is the local version of the Hacibaba Kapali Pide. Sooooo so good.
And then there is the elephant in the room. Located in a ‘conservative’ part of eastern Turkey, the cultural experience, cuisine, shopping & sights are outstanding for the most part. However, there are two possibly insurmountable hurdles, one being an ever-decreasing natural snow cover. The other hurdle from an international ski travel perspective is the regional attitude to women. Let us just say that some people are more equal than others, so female visitors may (and in our parties case, did) find the experience here unsettling at best, but troubling more likely. For me, the inequality metered out was obvious and the impact on our party quite telling. Anyone coming here needs to be ‘eyes wide open’ to gender inequality in this part of Türkiye.
We did wonder if there is a way for the gender inequity hurdles at Palandöken & Erzurum to been in some way minimised. The answer is simple, either don’t go, or carefully choose where one is staying. In the state-run, conservative Snodorra Hotel, the price for a room may be super-cheap and the breakfast spread & waiting staff excellent, however the overall experience is best described as unpleasant. At the nearby Dedeman Hotels (one at the lift base and one higher up at mid-mountain), the experience is opposite: progressive, embracing, convivial, more like hotels in the Alps but with the added benefit of sensational Turkish food & service.
We visited the resort at the usual peak of the snow season, but on this trip it was shortly after a massive earthquake that devastated a large part of the country and took thousands of lives. There was a collective sadness to the visit as a result, resulting in staffing issues that apparently impacted the running of the ski area (the Konakli sector was not even open, and it allegedly has better snow).
So with all the above in mind, at this stage it is difficult to recommend international ski travellers visit Ejder 3200. But if you are looking at going (because it is an affordable ski destination), plan to be flexible and go last minute when the snow is deep & all the lifts are running. Plus, be prepared to skin out to the massive, underutilised backcountry.
I will return one day to ski it in a full snow cover and without the misery of a natural disaster hanging over the place. The terrain and infrastructure are good enough to at least merit that. And of course, there is always the food to draw one back .......
