We’d been watching the forecast and most of the Alps was going to remain dry. A decent snowstorm took us to Sestriere and the Retour d’est was set to intensify and drop the motherlode further south in the Limone and Prato Nevoso area. Retour d’est forecasting can be fickle, especially a couple of days out, and this return from the east was true to form as the models kept moving, especially with respect to temperature. Keen to visit the area after having watched the two massive snowstorms in December including one around Xmas (e.g. video & video) when my colleague was there, we took the punt to drive south to Limone with our fingers crossed for cold temperatures.

Zero regrets but unfortunately the temperature didn’t drop as much as hoped (and hyped), and with its southerly latitude and proximity to the Med, Limone got the motherlode of sloppy wet snow instead of powder.

We were joined by Chad and Leroy at breakfast who were peaking and keen to get out there, however we needn’t have rushed to get up to Limone Quota 1400 for a few reasons. Only a couple of lifts were running initially, the snow was snotty, and visibility poor and skiing by braille kept all but the hardiest away. It was tricky to find the balance between skiing in amongst the trees for vis, but also trying to get higher to find better snow. It was great to watch the small band of local skiers who found the sweet spot and were charging on super fat skis with brave knees and thighs of steel.

I only skied the right hand side of the trail map, so clearly only “saw” (or didn’t see) a small part of the terrain, so this review obviously has some major limitations. In addition to the propensity for wet snow, one noticeable con was that a couple of lifts evidenced the long history of the ski resort. The lack of crowds and cheap lift tickets were major pros.

Affordable lodging was another advantage. We stayed at Hotel Edelweiss, which was positioned between 1400 and Limone Piemonte town. The deluxe junior suite provided very good value for money, although the stairs of the neighbouring suite were a bit noisy, sort of like me after a couple of cocktails in the lovely bar onsite.

The town of Limone Piemonte was another big pro of the area, and we had a designated driver to ferry us for dinner. After feeling “pillaged” in Sestriere, the food and beverages in Limone Piemonte were delightfully economical. We enjoyed classic Italian fare, including bruschetta and pasta as well as pizza (face) for the Board Goddess. The town had plenty of personality and it looked particularly pretty at night where the main square was illuminated with all sorts of colourful lights.
See our video here

After a marathon journey by public transport from Switzerland (a story for another time but suffice to say that any travel around Christmas time is interesting!), I spent Christmas 2025 at Limone Piemonte chasing a BIG storm. After a few days of low visibility, increasing snow depths, and varied snow quality (due to major temperature fluctuations), a bluebird Saturday after Christmas brought not only an incredible powder day, but also a hefty crowd. After skiing the resort almost totally bereft of any other humans, the crowd was a shock, but thankfully they predominantly stayed on the piste, leaving this resort's incredible freeride terrain to a very happy band of powder-starved foreign interlopers (me included!).

One would think from the photos that the snow at Limone would rate more than 3 powder paws, but like everywhere, whilst it is great on its day, the resort’s southerly location, relatively modest top altitude and proximity to the Mediterranean Sea can act against it. Take a close look at the forecast temperatures before heading on a Limone storm chase and you won’t be disappointed. But of course if a storm doesn’t work out, you can still have a great time here on mostly-deserted pistes mid-week and a pleasing village where sitting in the various local’s bars will bring a nice dose of travel joy.

Skiing at Limone is deserted midweek and on days of low visibility. Weekends and holidays are another thing though. Many of weekend skiers are fixated, like many Italian ski areas, with race club and getting led around by the nose in ski lesson groups with a local instructor. That’s good for powder hunters, but like anywhere, complacency can cost you first tracks in the ‘low hanging fruit’ off-piste zones.

The lift system of Limone is diverse mix of high-speed quads, low speed doubles, the odd surface tow, and one gondola up from the main village. For freeriders the most important lifts once up top are Alpetta (L4), Belvedere (L6)(particularly on stormy days when other lifts aren’t running!), Pian del Leone – Pancani (L8), and Cabanaira (L9).

The ski terrain at Limone is in two major sectors. The largest is between the main village & the alpine village of Q.1400. The second smaller sector is between Q.1400 & Limonetto. A minor sector is Maneggio. Piste terrain is great for intermediates and advanced riders will enjoy it immensely too. I won’t go into too much detail. Just explore it all and find your favourite zone. Runs can up to 5km+.

A highlight for me was riding the varied freeride lines skiers’ right off the top section of Alpetta’s piste #15 and exiting via Ski Route #1. Fantastico! You could spend half a day doing long laps (and I did), using the gondola & Alpetta chair to get back up into the action. The next best freeride zone is skiers’ left & right of ski route #4. A multitude of variations can be had on either side of the valley. Note potential avalanche hazards on the steeper terrain and terrain traps below.

I rate Limone just middle of the road for ‘child-friendly’ mainly due to the limited amount of beginner pistes, and the often quite difficult linking pistes between the two main sectors. The 5km long switchback beginner run (piste #35A) above Q.1400 village is great for progressing novices but has flat sections that will frustrate anyone else. It is good as a freeride exit in parts, otherwise is best avoided. Elsewhere for novices the Maneggio sector has two useful lifts and easy-going terrain. It is quite low elevation though, so we suspect it would be quite ‘moist’ on many days.

Traveling alone can have some benefits during Christmas storm-chasing events. Whereas accommodation might have been difficult to get at short notice with a larger group, being alone meant snaffling a single room was easy. I stayed on the upper edge of the village ‘old town’ at the convivial and great value Hotel Marguareis. The main gondola was a just a 5-minute stroll up the road, and the village centre was a few minutes down the road. The train station was a 10-minute walk. For anyone wanting a more resort-style alpine village, one could stay up at Q.1400, but seriously, a massive part of this ski resort’s appeal is the beautiful Limone Piemonte village centre, so why would you stay elsewhere? Exploring its many narrow lanes is a delight, and the nighttime light show in the square is gorgeous when the snow is falling.

Dining wise, in a town where everywhere is good or it doesn’t survive, there were a couple of standouts. We were told by everyone that the best in town was La Taverna Degli Orsi. Only problem is that unless they have a cancellation, the restaurant is booked out months in advance. No harm in trying your luck though (as I did). Other notable mentions include Il Bagatto and Ristorante la Diligenza along with a host of others. Our favourite though, was Pizzeria La Crubarsela, and not because of its pizzas – far from it in fact. What I loved was its diverse menu, cheap prices, huge servings, cash only payment, and that it did not take bookings! Magnificent all round.

On the mountain there are a few places serving standard fare which is good without being memorable, plus a few self-serve places for simpler food. The most potential was at the Chalet La Grogia, which was ski-in from piste #18 just above the Belvedere (L6) chairlift base. Unfortunately the classic alpine refuge of Chalet Le Marmotte was either closed or full whenever we tried to get in. It did look unreal though from the outside fully encased in icy rime. Amusingly, the mountain restaurant with the grandest view, Baita 2000 was totally missed by me. So intent on skiing the various powder slopes nearby, I failed to even note its sneaky location under the top station of the Cabanaira (L9) chair. Note to self to visit next time.

From a nightlife perspective I love this place. Not your classic loud Austrian-style après ski, or fancy French ski resort nightclubs, but just fun, honest local bars full of friendly local characters. Two bars stood out. For après ski drinks & snacks, try and get into the bar at Hotel Petit Meublè. Their accounting system is fun to behold, but the service, friendly staff, and classic Italian food & drinks are all top-notch. Down in town, pull up a stool at Bar Paninoteca. Run by a couple of absolute firecrackers, having a few drinks here and getting friendly with the locals is what travel is all about.

Getting to Limone Piemonte by public transport is easy on the train. I travelled all the way from Visp in Switzerland via Brig, Milan & Turin to get there. Easy peasy, even with Christmas holiday crowds. The trains that complete the journey to Limone are wonderfully modern and comfortable.

When the winter storm gods point to cold temperatures & deep fresh snow at Limone Piemonte, get down there. Whilst its low elevation is the biggest concern here, the skiing is absolutely gorgeous in the right conditions.

See our thoughts on the resort’s pros & cons via the Limone Piemonte overview page.

See our video here

Limone is a romantic village with great skiing and proximity to the Riviera.

The ski area stretches over three valleys and the lifts consist of a mixture of museum pieces to modern lifts/gondolas.

There are about 10 restaurants/rifugios on the slopes and you will spend a considerable amount of time at these outdoor cafes 🍺☀️

There are even more restaurants in the village, from luxury and Michelin to traditional restaurants. Regardless of the price level, it is really affordable (compared to Sweden)

The slopes are located in the north and are relatively snow-sure.
Easily accessible off-piste where the snow lies untouched for weeks after snowfall (the Italians stay on the slopes)

There are nice summit tours in the area. The easiest way is to pull on the skins at the top lift and you will reach a fantastic valley. usually stable conditions (low avalanche risk).
From the peaks you can see the Mediterranean shimmering in the distance.

There are also four forts at the 2,000m level from the Napoleonic era. Clearly interesting tourist destinations.
When the snow is good, you can go down to the French side to Vievola and take the train back to Limone

It is about 40 minutes by car down to the Mediterranean so Après ski on the beach is completely possible ☀️

Getting here:
The easiest way is to fly to Nice.

From there you take the train to Ventimiglia where you change trains to Limone. Or 100 kilometers by car from Nice

You can also take the train from Turin or Milan (the train stops in the middle of the village)

Best time to go to Limone?
They usually open around December 8th and the sun is already warming up nicely during midwinter. But the skiing is usually better in February-March
See our video here