It is fair to say that we were unimpressed with Kanzelwand and would suggest to most people visiting Oberstdorf and Kleinwalsertal to perhaps avoid it unless the perfect circumstances align. Essentially just one long run, some novice terrain below and a little off-piste in the top 150m vertical, we struggle as to why this ski area is so popular.
If skiing a 4km long piste descent so dangerously crowded with humanity (and akin to our idea of a skier nightmare hellscape) holds appeal to you, by all means come and ski Kanzelwand above Riezlern. With its base area good for novices & beginners the upper mountain provides not much on the Austrian side, but perhaps a little more on the German Fellhorn side, particularly for intermediates on the piste. Of all the highlights here, that is possibly one of the better aspects – being able to cross an international border on skis.
Whilst it’s not steep or particularly technical, simply due to the sheer weight of 'out-of-control' humanity on the slope, we rate the number #15 valley piste at Kanzelwand one of those where, regardless of one's ski ability, the likelihood of injury via collision is extremely high. And that's after it was recently widened! Widened for good reason we suspect.... That said, in good snow conditions after the tunnel the descent is rather fun and a pleasing with Riezlern village and the blessed end of the run emerging below.
To add to the carnage, the end of the run where it reaches the gondola base is a narrow shambles where taking ones skis off without checking mauled is a challenge in itself. The queue for the gondola often spills up into the ski run so it is best to stop a little earlier and walk down the side to avoid the worst of the traffic. All in all, not a very pleasant experience.
Eating wise, the mountain hut below the summit, Adlerhorst is better value and ambiance than the dross in the summit-top Panorama Restaurant.
So when should you ski Kanzelwand?
And a quick message for beginners - please do everyone a favour and stay away from this top to bottom intermediate piste until you can ski properly.
A final annoyance was the requirement to pay for a bus ticket when crossing the border into Germany on the way back. So much for the fully integrated lift & transport system that OK (Oberstdorf-Kleinwalsertal )Bergbahnen always harp on about.
Riezlern is a pleasant town at the base of Kanzelwand and can make a good base from which to explore the Kleinwalsertal, but we think the larger, more lively Oberstdorf is the better bet, or the more alpine style offerings like Mittelberg. Only stay in Oberstdorf to ski Kleinwalsertal if you have your own car. The allegedly ‘free’ ski buses are just too much effort from there.
See our thoughts on the resort’s pros & cons via the Kanzelwand - Riezlern overview page.