We spent our first turns of the 25/26 season in mid-December at Belalp. It was literally like skiing in one’s own private ski resort. The visit was the perfect prep for our legs. Quiet slopes, perfect pistes, affordable lodging, convivial people and the financial freedom provided by the Magic Pass. Glorious.

Without a rental car, public transport was used all the way from Zurich to the cable car base. Taking the bus up Blatten village from Brig train station makes a potentially stressful driving journey easy (more on that later!). Alighting at the final stop, the cable car is a few steps away from the bus stop. Click through the gate with our Magic Pass, choose between gondola or cable car (they head to different locations mid-mountain - we needed the cable car!), and we were away……

It is easy to underestimate ski resorts like Belalp. It is like a compact version of the nearby Aletsch Arena, but with less people. Far less in fact. Most of the clientele here are Swiss (plus a smattering of Dutch & Germans), so it is easy to find a quiet time to ski, particularly before the usually hectic Christmas period.

The lower fringe of the wide alpine sector at Belalp is dotted with three collections of cute Swiss chalets and a handful of hotels. We stayed at Hotel Sparrhorn with its simple rooms, great location, delicious food & friendly, attentive staff led by the affable Martin. As the only guests in the hotel we were well pampered. One of its greatest asset is the location. A few metres away from the Sparrhorn chairlift, the hotel is the best positioned accommodation on the mountain. Access is via the cable car from Blatten village to Belalp and then a 650m walk or complimentary oversnow up to the hotel. Feeling the need for some aerobic exercise we strolled up but took advantage of a fun snowmobile ride back down when we departed.

With early season conditions there was limited terrain open and all of it only on-piste. The off-piste was nasty. Stepping out of the Sparrhorn (hotel) to the Sparrhorn (chair) meant first chairs and first tracks each morning, such that it felt like our own private ski resort until 10am. Without the Hohstock T-bar, and the return platter from Aletschbord open, terrain was limited for advanced riders but that wasn’t the point of this trip. The open pistes were absolute perfection all day, and even better on the final day with a sprinkling of fresh on top. Such joy!

We haven’t visited Belalp for 8 years. So what’s changed? Not much really. The novice conveyor is longer and fully enclosed, making the compact but perfect learn-to-ski area even better. The Chalet Sepp hotel has a new deck, bistro & bar. A few of the on-mountain, slopeside bar/cafes have improved, most noticeably the Hexenbar at the top of the Sparrhorn chair.

The biggest concern with Belalp, especially for beginners, is that aside from the cracking sled/ski trail down from the heights into Blatten, all of the terrain is above the treeline. Despite its sunny south-aspect, overcast days here can render the terrain quite featureless. Of course the pistes are exceptionally well marked.

Regarding driving to Belalp (well at least up to Blatten village anyway), the road has many narrow, blind bends that keep even the best drivers hyper-alert. The skill of the bus drivers to navigate is exceptional & always impresses. And there-in lies the biggest issue for drivers (aside from ice on the road) – oncoming heavy vehicles. If driving, be prepared to back up if encountering the regular route 624 PostAuto bus at an inopportune moment. Parking in the main garage has a significant daily fee too. Another reason for a short-term visitor to take public transport. So, if in doubt take the bus!

We had hoped to return to Belalp if everything aligned later in the season, but it wasn’t to be. Nevertheless, skiing a deserted ski resort at the start of the season is always an experience worth treasuring. Read more about the pros & cons via our Belalp overview page.

See our video here

It would be easy to dismiss Belalp as just another small Swiss ski resort and not ski it. But on the premise that every ski resort is good on its day, after a 30ish cm snow fall, we did! Happy to report that the experience was thoroughly enjoyable.

A painless bus trip from Brig up the wining road to Blatten bei Naters and we were deposited at the combined gondola /cable car base. For skiers, avoid the cable car and jump on the gondola. On the way up, numerous chalets, some good looking lower off piste terrain, the long sled trail plus winter walking trails are in full evidence.

Alighting at over 2000m elevation you get a sense of being in for a good day. An excellent learn to ski area which a witch theme (Hexenland), ski rental, repairs, ski school and a few bar/restaurants that double as ski n ski out accom are all located at the top of the gondola. Three chairlifts extend over rolling terrain to service the bulk of the piste trails which are mainly intermediate and in parts unnecessarily narrow. Whilst of little interest to Powderhounds, they are perfect for family groups and children.

The top of the long Sparrhorn 6seater fully displays the possibilities. Long groomed pistes extend down, and for the more advanced, two T-bars extend up. Groomed trails off the T-bars include several marked ‘black’, but they are anything but. Advanced riders main interest here is the off piste.

The Hohstock T-bar tops out at over 3100m elevation and opens up the chance to see uninterrupted over 1700m vertical and 14km back down to the base in Blatten, albeit with a little bit of pushing along one long flat section. Save it til later because on a powder day the more worthwhile option is to lap the freeride terrain to the skiers right of the T-bar all the way down to the Sparrhorn chair (a not too shabby 1000m vert). it would be easy to spend the day doing this, particularly if the ‘tunnel of love’ is open. The tunnel, at the top of Hohstock, opens up easy access to another huge bowl extending the freeride possibilities even further. Unfortunately, the tunnel was closed due to extreme avalanche hazard, so it remains ‘unsampled’ by Powderhounds. Navigation in the off piste in reasonable visibility at Belalp is relatively easy for the uninitiated. We were lucky enough to hook up with a fun expat crew that were happy to explore.

A worthwhile lunch expedition is the ski from Sparrhorngrat (2860m) down to the historic lodge, Aletschbord (2100m). Not only is the traditional fare at Aletschbord delicious, but the views over the snout of the Aletsch glacier and into the Rhone valley are sensational. Whilst in good snow it would be possible to ski off piste into Blatten from Aletschbord, the usual return to the ski area is via a winter walking trail (skating) and the Farrichlift.

An après ski session in the afternoon at Chalet Sepp saw us undertake the Belalp rite of passage. As the sun disappeared and the gondola stopped turning for the day, the only way down was via the 8km long sled run. The sledding trail is heavily utilised during the day by skiers and sledders alike. By the afternoon, even though rated ‘blue’, it more closely resembles a double black diamond run. With a 6 pint handicap in fading light, the run is super fun and a tad frightening. Bring a headlamp. You have been warned! Of course you could forgo the ski down and stay the night at the Sepp or the nearby Hamilton Lodge.

On mountain accommodation is very well priced and usually available. Otherwise Blatten has several good hotels at the resort base. Alternatively, Brig is only a 20min bus ride away.

Pick your days and you will find Belalp ski resort a pleasant surprise and well worth the trip.
See our video here