Alpe d'Huez is huge and has a lot to offer, especially once you learn how to avoid the masses.

First visit we parked in the free new undercover carpark at Allemond and caught the flash new Eau D'Olle Express, plus two more. We got lucky and arrived at the Pic Blanc cable car just prior to departure. First group to the top of Pic Blanc 3330. Fresh snow, poor visibility but so much fun around the Herpes chair ..... childish how the name still makes me laugh:-)

Next visit was three days later after a lot of fresh snow. This meant that lifts up high didn't open on time, so starting early didn't work with the seething horde of humanity, unless you wanted to be in pushy lines for unknown periods of time. Ended up skiing side country to avoid humanity and it was the best decision. Had an absolutely fabulous lunch of quail in a quirky old off the beaten track restaurant.

Added bonus was we stayed in a town nearby (Bourg d'Oisans) that we had visited five years earlier, it had the best croissants I've ever had, and it still does.

See our video here

Skiing Alpe d'Huez on BIG powder days can be the best you have ever had, but it can have its issues. The battle to get high on the Pic Blanc is indeed that … a battle. Sometimes there are just too many people. And whilst scoring a massive, 12km long powder descent is relatively easy, repeating the dose on the same day can be anything but. Perhaps its greedy to even think one should be able to repeat such a run within the bounds of a ski resort, but greedy we are on occasions!

Let me explain ....... Alpe d’Huez is an immense ski area with a burgeoning amount of guests enjoying its slopes. Put simply the amount of skier traffic endeavouring to get up to the highest parts of the resort, particularly in the early part of a sunny day is extraordinary. Lifts like the Alpette-Rousses, Pic Blanc & Marmottes 3 cable cars can be heavily stacked with humans. All part of the game though. Can’t imagine what skiing here would be like if these locations were served by high-volume gondolas and chairs. At least the numbers descending at any one time is limited by the lifts going to the tops. Away from these three lifts, during peak periods and any day when the sky is blue & the sun is shining, whilst some lift lines may appear long, most will be no more than 10 to 15 minutes. Our experience was that the majority of lifts had no lines at all.

We were lucky enough (or was it just good management!) to score the first cable car up to Pic Blanc on our first day at Alpe d’Huez. The weather was feral, but the snow was deep, untracked and sublime all the way down the ‘flanks’ of Sarenne. And that was the only time we skied Sarenne in its totality during our stay in the region because there are far more interesting ways to get down from Pic Blanc than this very popular piste. I could go into detail, but let’s say that some things you just need to explore for yourself. Using the groomed exit from Sarenne toward Chalvet chairlift is handy though. Other fun powder zones for advanced & experts here are the infamous Tunnel and its associated (better) pitches, or the shorter, but high-quality Balcons zone below the top of Marmottes 2. We enjoyed them all.

With a massive 250km of pistes, including some that are 16km long, we scored Alpe d'Huez 5 paws with regards to piste trails on this trip. But they aren’t perfect. Why? Well because there are too many that cross the fall line, too many that get seriously clogged and bumped by skier traffic, and too many that weren’t skiable (i.e. open!). But don’t let this put you off. It still rates 5/5 because 250km of trails is A LOT, and long descents of over 1,800m vertical will get anyone’s juices flowing. In top to bottom cover, once away from the highly sought pistes like Sarenne, there is plenty of exploring to do for Groomerhounds. So many in fact that there are a few sectors we have still never visited (i.e. into Villard Reculas). But then again, we are chasing powder …..

Another 5 paws rating is the ski lifts. Whilst not perfect, it is as perfect as one can reasonably expect in comparison to anywhere else in the world. There has been an incredible amount of changes to the Alpe d’Huez lift system since our last visit in 2020, and all of them are GOOD. The new car park & gondola (Eau d’Olle Express) up from the valley at Allemond is fantastic for anyone not staying overnight on the hill. We parked undercover (for free) within 50m of the lift, and used the gondola on several mornings to get up the mountain well before other lifts were open. The replacement and new location/alignment of the Chalvet chair when exiting Sarenne is excellent. New pistes and alignments nearby are also welcome, providing more skiable options in the sector. At the Vaujany end, the new(ish) Clos Giraud chondola is way quicker and more comfortable than its previous incarnation. This sector can be cold, so the gondola option is a good one for those inclined to take their skis off all the time (not us!). The rationalisation of lifts nearby with the removal of the Montfrais 2 J-bar helps unclog the sector too.

More on lifts that we noticed … From the main Alpe d’Huez village the new DMC 1 & 2 gondolas are far more comfortable than their predecessors. At the other end of the village, the new Marmottes 1 chondola provides better uphill access for beginners. And in between the two, the replacement of the Rifnel novice pomas with covered surface conveyors is better for anyone learning to ski for the first time, plus improves visual amenity (if that’s even possible when a sprawling, multi-story village is its backdrop!). We are intrigued though that the Marmottes 2, an old-style 6-seat (effectively 4-seat!) gondola isn’t being replaced. Whilst only 25yr old, it feels positively antique compared to all others here and has some of the longest lift queues of anywhere on the hill.

The continuing theme of new chondolas (combi chairlifts & gondolas) at Alpe d’Huez includes a new one out of Auris en Oisans - the Sures. Again, much improved access for a wider variety of skier abilities (or are people just getting soft and going in the gondola for comfort??). Finally, for anyone staying in Huez village, or just skiing down to it, the replacement of the old pulse gondola with a flash modern 10-seat gondola is a godsend.

Of interest up high is the removal of the old ‘Glacier’ chairlift’. A victim of climate change, it use as a summer ski lift became redundant and its placement is no longer required. And visitors may notice some of the lower parts of the resort are a little bonier than a few decades ago. Thankfully this ski resort has plenty of altitude to offset any potential losses.

In clear weather, Alpe d’Huez strikes always strikes us one of the best learn-to-ski resorts. The range of lifts & pistes on the ‘frontside’ above the village is staggering, let alone all the other novice areas in the various sectors. And for season 25/26, a new 6-seat chairlift (the Loup Blanc or white Wolf) will expand it even further, adding more terrain as it extends out toward the top of Chalvet chair.

All that is a lot of infrastructure & terrain change in 5 years. It’s truly impressive. One thing we are not looking forward to is a proposed new gondola on Sarenne in a couple of years’ time. Whilst we understand the rationale, for powder seekers it will potentially diminish returns … or will it? We shall see.

On mountain dining can be a variable experience. Food quality tends to be excellent, but waiting times can be the absolute killer. The popular venues like Chantebise 2100 and the smaller excellent ones like Restaurant L’Aventure are overrun on a sunny day. Eitehr get there ealy or go to more secluded venues like the superb Auberge de la Combe Haute (past the new Chalvet chair base further down the Gau valley trail).

Because we follow storms and book last minute, when we ski Alpe d’Huez we stay off mountain in or near Bourg d’Oisans. A lovely town, with great services, a few excellent bars and beautiful food (including some of France’s best bread & croissants). This time we scored a sensational 3-bedroom apartment in a glorious stately home within walking distance of the town centre. Being off mountain allows for easier access to nearby 2 Alpes as well. If coming during peak periods (school holidays etc) we don’t recommend leaving accommodation to the last minute!

We enjoy the adventure on Alpe d’Huez but if hunting big powder lines, it is a place that requires some local knowledge to get the best out of it. On a powder day when the storms are raging, if you are new to the area, we reckon its neighbour at Les 2 Alpes is the better proposition. But when things settle, get your gear, start early and ski some long, long powder runs at Alpe d’Huez. For lovers of groomers, exploring Alpe d’Huez is far more interesting than 2 Alpes. Visiting the many villages of Alpe d’Huez feels like skiing in multiple resorts on the one trip without ever leaving the Grand Domaine.

See our thoughts on the pros and cons of this ski resort via our Alpe d’Huez overview page.
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Look, if you decide to spend some skiing time at Alpe d’Huez you better break out the roller skates (or blades if your fancy) and practice your technique. The long, flat parts at the bottom of the Sarenne run are fairly horrible and if you must do it more than once have a break at the excellent restaurant at the base of the old, dismantled chair.
Before the long, flat return is excellent skiing up the top. Head up to Pic Blanc as early as you can on a powder day, and you will be rewarded lovely, fluffy snow that you might have forgotten about by the end of the long skate, so take lots of photos or do a course in memory retention. The course could be an audio one which you can listen to while you are roller skating.
If you didn't do the skate training, you can stay up high and do some cruisy powder laps of the Herpie chair and then download/ski the other side of the resort.
We skied down to Vaujany which was surprisingly good fun considering it has an elevation of only 1250 metres.
Hmmm … hang on a moment. We went back a few days later and skied some very good powder on the opposite side of the valley to the Sarenne run and were only on it (the groomed bit) for a short time, so maybe you don't need to practice your skating so much! Helps to have a good guide!😊
See our video here

The first European ski resort I skied over 40 years ago was Les Deux Alpes and .. Alpes d’Huez. I was hooked for life. I still ski in Europe every year except the odd exception. Don’t worry, we ski in Canada and the US a lot too. We are just lucky enough to do both.

Huez deserves a better score than I give it. Big mountain, good snow, huge village with lots to do. It's kind of ski resort where a travel agent just needs to say to a prospective visitor: "trust be, you are going to love it!"

Unfortunately, not all trips from our younger days don't necessarily repeat itself. And it is what happened in Alpe d'Huez. While I would say that Huez was a 4.5-star resort when I went the first time, I must drop it at 3 stars, 40 years later.

You don't need to stay at any one hotel or neighbourhood to access the lifts. It's all excellent. As a matter of fact, while we were literally just 100 meters away from the most popular gondola at the very top of the village, it did not matter because all skiers had equal opportunity to get up the mountain quickly no matter where they were staying. The free resort transportation and shuttles do a superb job.

Our hotel might have been slightly better or not, it did not matter, the other hotels all had equal services and excellent quality. It is one of the few ski resorts where there was something for all budgets, and in spades.

Huez has huge terrain and, the better runs are without any doubt to us, the off piste. We may be young at heart but old, but we learned very early in our ski life that skiing the pow is the way to go. Huez is a perfect example of how large masses of skiers can quickly turn an early morning, groomed ski trail, into a danger zone with out-of-control people bombing down the narrowest of intermediate and beginner runs.

As Powderhounds reviews have mentioned, get there early to beat the crowds at the major lift stations and get your groomed runs in first, after that, get out of the way and head out in the powder: wondrous!

I'm not blaming the mountain for its new, lower score, or because it has changed for the worse, it’s the way France runs its business in general. A lot of the things we skiers take for granted are neglected because of the way French ski resorts operate. The lifts open way too late ( 8.30 to 9.00am is the norm). Eager skiers start lining up, as we do, at 7.30 am. By the time the lift operators open the gate, there's literally hundreds of people, anxious to get in their first "mid-morning run". It can take up to an hour to get up to the very top the mountain. The world famous Sarenne run that I skied in my early 20's (it's 20 k's long) is a blast! Again, start early or you will regret it. It gets very narrow in many places and slaloming around hundreds of skiers can be dangerous.
We all just want to ski and relax. On vacation, we normally don't want to worry about anything. But Covid, peoples work hours or other issues (pension age), but, in France, it matters a lot to them.

While I respect the choices that people make to protect their rights, I didn't expect to lose any access to the resort because the trains in France were stopped, reduced or cancelled with very little warning to find another option. While one interest group was making every effort to annoy both French politicians, citizens and tourists, another was using it as a way of abusing this newfound "opportunity" to create chaos and profit excessively from the people affected by France's challenges.

It sounds like we had a bad trip. Not at all. But I won't be going to France for a while or until they get their issues settled. Especially where it concerns services that I consider essential, and I mean by that: public transportation and public safety.
See our video here

A first-time visitor to Alpe d’Huez may be totally confuzzled (new word – thanks mysterious 11yo!) by the breadth & complexity of this ski resort, particularly if starting out from the village of Vaujany where one is confronted with 3 ski lifts but no ski runs (more on that later!). The wide-open beginner terrain around Alpe d’Huez village is straight forward, but beyond that, the possibilities are nearly unfathomable during a short visit. From an off-piste freeride point of view, it seems to be a mountain best explored with the assistance of a local mountain guide in the first instance. Even with our extensive knowledge & sense of adventure, we struggled over a few days to get a real handle on it – and that is a good thing (more on that later!).

The many villages of Alpe d'Huez put it in a higher category of mega resort than its neighbour, Les 2 Alpes (which only has a measly 3 villages). The 7 lift connected villages, plus an eighth if one counts the disconnected valley hub of Le Bourg d’Oisans, are all incredibly varied in character & aspect.

Alpe d’Huez is a sprawling, but ordered, modern monstrosity replete with 6-storey hotels & apartment blocks. Better planned & somehow more acceptable to the eye than the hodgepodge development at Les 2 Alpes, it is still a resort village that in the end one either loves or hates. We err on the side of hate, by not so vehemently, so perhaps it is more of a mild distaste!

Alternatives include the original Huez, just down the road. It retains the traditional charm of a French Alps mountain village, albeit just surrounded by a busy (& nightmarish) road made famous by the pain it induces on professional cyclists in the Tour de France race. Off the Huez road is the quiet, traditional village of Villard Reculas. The perfect spot to rent a chalet in a rural setting, it has a small ski area base connected to the broader domain but few services & shops. Below that, Le Bourg d’Oisans is surrounded by precipitous mountain splendour at the bottom of the valley. Affordable & with better short notice availability than the higher villages, it does have the seriously flawed drawback of not being near a ski lift or trail! Above Le Bourg d’Oisans the tiny authentic hamlet of Maronne has lots going for it, but the circa 1970s chairlift may become annoying after a time. The hamlets location seemingly a world away from Alpe d’Huez until you note the high-rise apartment skyline visible in the background. Its opposite in the Auris sector is a dated resort style village called Auris en Oisans. Families may enjoy its sunny aspect, reasonable affordability & fewer skiers.

A better alternative is Vaujany at the opposite end of the Grand Domaine. A mix of tradition & modernity, it is a haven in a sea of ski resort village depravity. Its opposite number is the contemporary resort village of Oz en Oisans – perfect for those that want petite, modern functionality. The lifts out of Oz en Oisans provide the best initial coverage of any in the entire resort. Confuzzling enough for you?

We started our jaunt across the Grand Domaine in the Oz-Vaujany sector from the afore mentioned village of Vaujany. The lowest elevation of the interlinked resort villages, it has a wonderfully integrated village, car park & lift terminal. Free undercover parking. Walk straight through an exit onto the ski lift deck where 2 modern gondolas & cable car get one up & across to the action. There is no ability to ski to or from Vaujany directly, which aside from being a tad odd is also somewhat disappointing. The words ‘compulsory download’ are never great in a ski resort review, but there it is. Maybe ‘compulsory upload’ sounds better? An additional brand spanking new gondola simply links back up to Vaujany from the La Fare valley trail (rated advanced but doable by intermediates) across the other side of the valley. Vaujany is also the major base for its own smaller (& cheaper) ski domain, along with its opposite, Oz en Oisans. Easiest to drive to in bad weather, it still has some serious hairpins to manoeuvre in icy conditions.

The direct route to the 3330m summit of Pic Blanc from Vaujany involves three cable car rides with a short ski in between the Rousses top & Pic Blanc bottom stations. Typical of cable cars, all are packed & get worse as the morning wears on. There will generally be a wait for the Pic Blanc cable car – it is what it is. From Alpe d’Huez to the top involves 2 chairlifts & two gondolas. Not sure which journey is more tortuous but that is the price for a skiable vertical of over 2000m. It goes without saying that if heading up to the summit (& you should), start early.

From Pic Blanc summit piste trail options include the long, long Sarenne & legendary Tunnel advanced runs. They act like a honeypot, attracting every snow-slider regardless of ability to their extended pistes. Sadly, the Tunnel was closed during our visit (for no obvious reason either). Skiing the 16km Sarenne is a true test of one’s mettle. Sure, the run is long, but dodging others proves to be the greater challenge. It is a run to do once (& early in the day) then stick to greener pastures. Snowboarders will need to keep the speed up once it flattens along the valley – a walk is likely.

I could harp on about the on-piste trails at Alpe d’Huez and lengthen this review significantly, but I think its verbose enough. So, in short – with over 250km of trails, it will suffice to say that there is something for everyone & unusually a lot more for advanced riders than most ski areas. Alpe d’Huez is perfect for novices & beginners right around the main village. Some of the intermediate runs feel a touch too ‘traversing road-like’ rather than piste, but I am quibbling. Plenty for everyone – put it in the bank!

The freeride off-piste terrain, particularly for experts, is off the charts at Alpe d’Huez. Not nearly as obvious or approachable as Les 2 Alpes, the many permutations from Pic Blanc (3330m elevation), Dôme Des Rousses (2800m) or the backside of Signal (2100m) are mind-bending. It is hard to find entry points & routes but having tasted a few, it leaves you wanting to come back for more. And that is a good thing. Get a guide to simplify the more difficult freeride terrain – you will know what I am talking about when you see it!

On a powder day do not ignore the smaller ski sector of Auris en Oisans (& Maronne) on the north-aspect Signal de l’Homme. Steeps off the sunny backside into Auris would be fun in deep, safe snow. Otherwise, nicely pitched alpine meadows and some trees into Maronne are perfect for poor visibility outings. Piste trails in the sector are quiet & varied enough for all abilities. As with Oz-Vaujany, the sector has a cheap lift pass valid only on the Auris side of the Alpauris chair. The Alpauris chair traverses the gulch from Alpe d’Huez & is one of the weirder ski lift experiences in the world as it goes along, steeply down & finally up – be wary of your ski tips at the awkward valley mid station.

Unlike some French ski resorts, there are no old banged-up gondolas at Alpe d’Huez (OK there is one, but it doesn’t serve any ski terrain). There are however numerous old banger chairs across the entire domain – some of which are quite important for getting around efficiently! In such a thoroughly modern ski resort, chairs from the 70s & 80s are out of place. Up near Pic Blanc, whilst not that old (less than 20yr), we avoided the Herpie chair for obvious reasons!

Food wise on the mountain there are loads of options, some great, some not so. Rule of thumb for us was the further away from Huez, the better it got. At Maronne, despite some initially surly service, lunch was delicious at the Le Foret de Maronne restaurant. Above Villard Reculas, the Restaurant La Bergerie is another fine choice. When in doubt, go the plat du jour. The L'Île d'Oz & others near L'Alpette above Vaujany & Oz en Oisans are rated amongst the best in the entire Grand Domaine.

Missed the après ski action at La Folie Douce, mainly because of the huge line ups at the Marmottes-1 chair late in the day. We know how fun it can be having experienced the franchise previously at Val d’Isere & Meribel, noting that the drink prices can be steep, but the vibe & entertainment are usually first class. There are plenty of opportunities for after ski drinks everywhere across the resort, but nothing stood out to us, mainly due to the lack of people.

At the end of our short stay at Alpe d’Huez, it felt like we did not do justice to the mountain. We will have to return to properly tease out all those possibilities (i.e. the Grand Sablat Glacier descent) & be less confuzzled…. It is a big, mega, super-size ski hill after all & deserving of further exploration.

You can see our thoughts on the pros & cons on the Alpe d’Huez overview page and also see our European ski resort ratings regarding how we score it compared to other skiing areas.

See our video here

We went in march for a week after a barren spell of weather with very little snow for 2 - 3 weeks and warm temps so snow quality wasn't the best with the daily freeze / thaw cycle. As ADH (Alpe d'Huez) is high, the pistes were not too bad (thanks to the pistuers) but the lower parts of the resort like Vaujany were grass.
There is loads of potential for off piste and some great lines to be had when conditions suit but not when we were there. The longest black run - Sarenne (16km?) is a bit of a let down - reasonably steep at the start for maybe 3-4km and then a loooong flatish cattrack run out that seemed to go on forever which I would imagine be a nightmare for boarders in deep snow. Most of the lifts had a queue of some sort but the longest wait was only 10mins as they run at a reasonable rate.
La Folie Douce provides early apres on the mountain and gets lively, whilst in town there is a couple nightclubs and plenty of bars to satisfy the Party Harder Crew.
Prices were your typical French ski resort - 7/8 euro beers , burger and fries 15 euro , pizza 10 euro and every meal we had was good.
We had a good time even though snow conditions were crap (bad timing) and we would go back.
See our video here