Mölltaler Gletscher is one of those high-elevation Austrian ski areas that should be on everyone’s radar but isn’t. I’ve often wondered why, but my previous visit where I waited in Flattach for days on end for the mountain to open (and it didn’t) probably give an indication of its single greatest problem. Wind. But more on that later.
What Mölltal does have on its side are several things. One is high elevation, and another is its location in a traditionally high snowfall zone on the alpine ridge. Yet another is its proximity to the Gasteinertal and some spectacular backcountry descents toward Sportgastein from Schareck.
Being an ardent user of public transport, I took the free ski bus from Mallnitz to Mölltal. Comfortable for most of the journey, the later stages were loaded with people jumping on at Flattach. The return journey was decidedly quieter, with only 3 people in the bus the entire way. Go figure. If thinking of taking the bus from Mallnitz, note the relatively limited running times to/from Molltal. If taking it from Flattach, understand that the later along the route you catch it, the fuller it will be. From the bus stop at the lift base it starts to interesting with an often-long line-up for a funicular. I will say it up front, I hate funiculars. There are a whole lot of reasons for my hate, and knowing the day will begin with a ride on one never pleases me. However, the ‘Gletscher Express’ funicular at Mölltal does do its job admirably, rapidly clearing a busy weekend morning line-up at the base of the mountain. Phew. Glad that’s out of the way.
From the top of the funicular, the connecting ‘Eisseebahn’ gondola is a classic aging ‘6-seater’ that is only big enough for 4 adults with freeride gear. Thankfully, every 2nd or 3rd cabin has had its external ski racks modified to take a fat ski, but snow boards have to brought inside the cabin, which is no fun for anyone involved …..
There is some enjoyable skiing here, both on and off the piste. Simple to navigate on a clear day, it is a ski area of rock & snow. Be wary riding off the piste because sharks definitely ‘patrol these waters’.
On arrival I pushed hard skiers’ right (under the rope) into a broad powder bowl that ended in a series of steepish chutes and then across a broad basin to the bottom of the Klühspies chair, a a good 600m vert off the piste to blow the cobwebs away. A fun start for sure. From there it gets a little bit hmmm.
The best snow on the mountain was around the Alteck chair. Only 300m (ish) of skiable vertical, its rolling terrain has some good variety and a few avalanche fences to weave between down lower. From the top there are options to traverse and climb a little higher to far skiers’ left and ride a nice steep face that ends on the #14 trail. Otherwise traversing skiers’ right leads to an easy Variante and beyond.
Of interest is the upgrade of a previously red intermediate piste (#9) to being a blue beginner piste for much of its length, making a safe connection between Eissee & the funicular. There is still a short section of steeper, narrower piste near the bottom that will test those with lesser ability, so it doesn’t quite achieve the goal.
High & hard skiers’ right of the Gletscher Jet chair, I scoped out the entry to the backcountry descent to Sportgastein. Looks straightforward enough from an obvious col along the ridge beyond piste #1. Several groups descended whilst I looked on. Their timing was interesting - about 11.30am. Going earlier would be preferable and next time I will (when I am not skiing solo!). Look to be a fine adventure in cold, north-aspect terrain.
The actual glacier is a sad remnant of its former past and is difficult to actually observe. Within our lifetime the glacier once stretched a full 700m vertical all the way from the Schareck summit down to the edge of the Hochwertenspeicher lake. It is now confined to a few odd lumps near the top, depressingly carved and altered by snow groomers. A structural support for the old double chair (Sesselbahn 3000) sits helplessly propped on a fading remnant of ice. A sad reminder of human impact on the world.
The Eissee restaurant at the top of the gondola is a sight to behold. Bright red & mirrored glass, it sits not too uncomfortably in its surroundings of snow & rock. Massive inside and out, the vibe is one of serving the masses & drawing in the sun. Appears to achieve the goal. A vast seating area, bar & self-service restaurant make up the interior. (We think it also used to house & sizeable youth hostel, but there is no sign of it now - another victim of glacier/snow decline?). A ‘groβer sonnenterrasse’ (huge sun terrace) with sun lounges & benches allows the visitors to photosynthesise whilst indulging in their mid-morning bier. Having seen a lot of sun in my time, I declined to participate.
Had my first bratwurst of the 2024 season at the Duisberger Hutte. A traditional mountain hütte and perfect counterpoint to the distinctly non-traditional Eissee Restaurant, it serves Austrian classics at an affordable price, and with the sort of gruff service that one needs to avoid taking personally. Smile & wave, smile & wave….. The bratwurst (served with a steaming mound of kraut, a slice of rye bread & a massive dollop of mustard) was divine!
After a feed, if the off-piste is skiable, drop straight into the Variante that runs back to the gondola base. You may find some nice snow in the lower half once out of the upper chute. Case it out on the gondola as you go up in the morning. Its on the lookers’ left side from the gondola.
It was disappointing that despite being a weekend with good snow & weather conditions, the Schwarzkopf chair & one of the Mittelstation’s surface tows were not running. They had been freshly groomed. There were many progressing beginners that would have appreciated them, and quite frankly, if you pay for a lift pass, why shouldn’t you expect all lifts to run if conditions allow? Clearly also, despite the trail map showing multiple piste options, along the Kluhspies & Gletscher Jet lift lines, the reality is, there are not! Are there ever? We don’t know. What we do know is that we saw no evidence of work to prep, or signs of the existence of pistes 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6.
I mentioned earlier, the wind plays a part in the day-to-day runnings of this mountain. And so it does. Feels like the windiest place in Austria. It moves and shapes the snow to vast degree and can mean the difference between a superb powder day, or a cruddy pile of misery. The wind, and no doubt combined with visibility serious limit the ski area’s operation. Whilst I don’t know the actual statistics, it would be an intriguing exercise to see how often the lifts run before, during & after a winter storm. High alpine areas are always at the mercy of the wind, but just be aware Moelltal’s particular locality makes it even more vulnerable to temporary closure.
I have stayed in several locations when visiting this region, and I can safely say the best option is Mallnitz. Quiet, dwelling in the 90s, it is situated splendidly at the confluence of two alpine valleys, has a useful train station that one can link easily to Gastein, has oodles of accommodation options, eateries and other things to do, and Ankogel is its local ski hill. Plus, its elevation may mean there is snow on the ground. Flattach and surrounds hold little interest (or snow) by comparison.
How to sum up? Would I go to specifically to Mölltaler Gletscher for a ski holiday. No. Would I visit Mölltal as part a greater exploration of the region including the Gastein valley. Definitely. But if you are going to visit, stay in Mallnitz or Bad Gastein.
See more about the pros & cons of this resort on our Mölltal Glacier overview page.
