Returned to Arolla-Evolene in late Feb 2025 to remind ourselves what it was like before the irreversible change that will happen once a proposed new gondola and restaurant is put in at Evolene. Our summation is to ski here before that happens. Hopefully season 25/26 still has the dinky old double chair running. It is rough but it keeps the crowds away and provides the kind of quirky ski experience that is rapidly disappearing in the Swiss Alps.

So what do we love about Evolene. We love that the ticket office has an ancient hay barn overhanging it that looks like it ready to collapse at any moment. We love that the chairlifts loading zone is as awkward as we have ever seen a chairlift loading zone. We love that when exiting the terrace of the mountain restaurant, if you are not careful you can get clocked in the head by someone’s skis as the chair passes low overhead. We love the beautiful, advanced pistes, particularly off the top of Mont Rouge T-bar down the ridge & steeply into the We love the immense views. We love that is part of magic Pass. We love the lack of people, the lack of fuss, the lack of pretence. We love the proximity of sidecountry adventures. And we love the village of Evolene, even though undergoing rapid change, it still holds onto its charm

This time we skied Evolene in conditions that were not too flattering. Grey, flat light, warm temperatures in the valley, exposed grass on the lower off-piste zones….. Doesn’t matter though. Practically had it too ourselves. The Arpilles J-bar out wide opened at about 10am. Worth being patient and not getting sucked into the zone too early. Can be a long wait for it start spinning otherwise. Despite snowing lightly on and off the off-piste snow conditions were challenging to say the least (actually the valley trail was probably more challenging having been through a very rugged freeze/thaw the previous 24hrs and rather than the blue rated trail that it is, was very black, ‘dark black’ even😊). Great terrain though and such good fun. Wonderful tours to the heights are easy from the top of the Arpilles J-bar and the Mont-Rouge T-bar. Poke your nose around a little bit and you will find some huge bowls directly off the lifts too (check your exits!). So much here for the adventurous. Very little for beginners though. In fact, beginners should stay away. This is currently not a mountain for you – there are better places to learn to ski.

We did visit La Forclaz ski area this time. We should not have bothered. What a shocker. It could be incredibly quant however an incredibly awkward layout makes it a nightmare. The village is quite pleasant but keep your ski lift expectations to a bare minimum.

Did a quick schooom around Arolla too. Was gloomy in the flat light, not a patch on when were here a few years ago in cold temperatures, fresh snow & glorious sunshine. That’s ok though. It’s still the same delightful place. Perhaps interestingly, despite its more remote location, is a nice ski resort for beginners. The lower slopes are fantastic to learn your first turns away from the hectic ‘industrial’ ski resorts that are not too far away (we are talking to you 4 Vallèes!)

Unlike our last visit where we used public buses to get around (perfectly fine too), this time we had a rental car. Worth noting is the narrowness of the short section of road between Evolene and the ski lift base at the hamlet of Lannaz. Driving around also allowed me to again marvel at the skills of the bus drivers in the region. Not an easy job. Car parking at Evolene can be limited on a ‘peak period’ weekend, just arrive early. If you are reading our website and still start skiing late in the day, you are in the wrong place…. Oh, and on the way into the valley from Sion, don’t forget to stop at the fascinating rock formation called the Pyramides d'Euseigne. The balancing rocks and spires are magnificent and rare to see so easily.

We always stay in the larger village of Evolene when visiting the valley. We reckon it has a good balance of liveliness (bars & restaurants) & services (food market, bakeries, ski shop) to make a stay here both comfortable & purposeful. The bus links all the ski areas are good too. Whilst perhaps a little touristy for some, there are plenty of quieter alternatives further up the valley where one can enjoy relative solitude.

Given their distant apart and difference in offering we should probably do separate pages for Arolla & Evolene. Then again …meh! If you are coming into this valley, you are a certain type of skier/splitboarder and should visit both. We will keep them together for the time being and hey, the lift passes are interlinked under the Espace Dent Blanche banner.

We do adore this valley in the Swiss Alps. It is beautiful, edgy, full of adventure, but still relaxing and affordable. Ski here soon.

See our thoughts on the pros and cons of this ski resort via our Arolla Evolene overview page.
See our video here

Skiing at Arolla-Evolène is like stepping back in time, but in the best possible way. The remote* Val d'Hérens in which they reside is gloriously serene (*remote by Swiss standards). The glacier draped mountains are sublime. The village of Evolène, & to a lesser degree, Les Haudères, are worthy of any nomination for the 'most beautiful villages' in Switzerland award. Arolla is in a stupendous mountain location, has super ski terrain and is closest to the local ski lifts.

Visiting the area in late January, I was hoping to ski all 3 sectors of Espace Dent-Blanche (or in English ‘White Tooth Space’), however time & weather was against me. I only briefly skied Evolène. It was a day where seeing one’s hand in front of ones face was difficult, so only got decent photos of from the village on my day of departure. I skied Arolla on glorious, cold & sunny day, perfect for an exploration of this fascinating ‘old school’ ski area. I never got to ski the more family friendly La Forclaz, but that’s ok, I’m coming back here!

Arolla is one of those ski areas that embraces all that I love about ski resorts. Very few people, amazing mountain landscape, lovely huts, big off-piste terrain, cheap lift pass price (free if like me you have a Magic Pass), decent snow & beautiful villages with tasty local cuisine.

The ski lifts are simple. Effectively 2 surface tows (the Fontanesses 1 & 3) get you all the way to the top at 3,000m. from there the world is your oyster. Long top to bottom 1,000m vertical groomers seemingly under the seracs od the decaying Glacier de Tsijiore Nouve are divine. The off-piste options are broad from the Noire du Col run at the top of the ski lifts. I happily ended up popping out at the La Chotte hut, before continuing on my way. Further skier’s left at the top and one ends up above the main Arolla village. And so it goes. With a bit of skinning there is loads more to be skied. The snow was variable off-piste when I was there. Generally, tracked, sun affected in spots, powder in the shade, crud down low, but it was still lots of fun. Was only one other person skiing off piste, but clearly the number of tracks show a few more freeriders roll up here after a snowfall!

If the sun is out, sitting out front of La Chotte hut is magnificent. Mountains, tunes, refreshments, company = fabulous. Higher up at the Buvette 3000 hut, the views get better, and you can order a delicious hand-crafted sandwich made of local ingredients to accompany a beverage as you ponder life’s mysteries and the grandeur of the mountains. At the end of the day as the bottom of the ski area disappears in shadow, La Yurt is a haven for home-cooked food and beverages before you head back to your hotel, or whilst waiting for the bus (like I was doing!).

Evolène is a beautiful village and has a perfect mix of tradition and modern services. Sited just off the main road to avoid any through traffic, its original timber clad buildings perfectly frame the surrounding mountains. An excellent range of restaurants, bars and accommodations line the central part of the village. At the top of town, Gaudin Sports provides professional ski servicing, rental & retail gear. We can recommend them for ski repairs - they did a beautiful fix and wax on a ‘core-shot’ I received at 4 Vallèes.

I stayed at the unpretentious Hotel Eden and enjoyed the simple, affordable rooms & great food. Included on the dinner menu were many locally sourced items that were fabulous. Its convivial bar served well for pre-dinner drinks, and the hotel’s host was fantastic.

Another lodging option is Pension d'Evolène. Whilst I didn’t spend a night there, dinner in the restaurant is absolute wonderful. It is worth a visit for that alone.

Arolla lacks the village ambiance of the others in Val d’Herens. It has a more a disparate selection of interesting hotels, and newer apartments. I checked out the Grand Hotel and at a pinch it is one of the few ski-in, ski-out lodgings in the region, but you gotta know where to go. It looks as Grand as its name and has the best bar in Arolla. I enjoyed sweet crepes at Hotel du Pigne whilst taking in the valley view up to the glacier-topped Mont Collon. The hotel’s rooms & restaurant look to be both comfortable and affordable. It is also at the bus terminus, which is handy, but is a walk down to the ski lifts, which is not!

I travelled to Evolène on the bus from Nendaz. The journey is seamless via Sion. I had a short stint in the warm waiting room at Sion train station, where I could charge my phone and access free Wi-Fi, before getting the next bus to Evolène. From my base at Evolène, buses took me where I needed to go to the ski lifts at Arolla or just down the road for Evolène. My next destination after the Val d’Herens was Zurich airport, and again, the journey was seamless. Bus to Sion, then 2 trains to the airport via Brig. Gotta love the Swiss public transport system.

Coming to this valley after staying in Nendaz highlights the stark reality of skiing in Switzerland. You can easily ski a modern mega resort one day, then an old-school treasure like Arolla the next. That’s what is so great about skiing the Swiss Alps. Such contrasts between the new & old, the progressive and the traditional. I’ll be back here next season. So should you.

Read more about the pros & cons of this ski resort on the Arolla-Evolene overview page.

See our video here