Queyras Ski Region France
The four unknown resorts of the Queyras ski region in the southern French Alps are part of the highest inhabited valley in Europe. Big skiable verticals, abundant freeride powder, uncrowded slopes, remote ski-touring & super-cheap - sounds good to us! The region’s resorts of Molines-en-Queyras/Saint Véran, Ceillac, Arvieux & Abriès include some wonderful authentic mountain villages and diverse terrain.
Close to the Powderhounds' favourites of Montgenevre & Serre Chevalier, the Queyras is a ski region loved by locals who have guarded its secrets well! When the weather phenomenon known as the 'Return from the East' (retour d'est) occurs in winter, make your way to the Queyras ........ tout de suite!
Pros & Cons for Queyras Ski Resorts
Pros
- Authentic, petite French Alps villages & ski resorts.
- High-altitude ski resort base areas, guaranteeing quality snow throughout the season.
- Long skiable verticals of up to 1,090m.
- Diverse network of lifts & ski trails.
- Untracked off-piste freeride powder options are vast after a storm.
- Uncrowded throughout the season.
- Quality on-piste trails for beginner & intermediate skiers & snowboarders.
- Excellent value lift passes.
Cons
- Aging lift infrastructure and high percentage of surface tows.
- Limited on-piste terrain for advanced skiers & boarders.
Pro or Con (depending on your perspective!)
- Skiing spread across 4 separate ski areas.
- Public transport access by train & bus is good but not awesome.
- Close to Serre Chevalier, Via Lattea & La Grave.
- Fresh snow is generally from quite specific south-easterly weather systems and can be limited by some dominant continental weather systems during the season .
Skiing & Snowboarding, Lift & Terrain
Skiing & snowboarding terrain in the Queyras is typified by pleasant piste trails for beginners & intermediates, plus all-aspect designated hors piste (off-piste) zones for advanced & expert riders. Freeride terrain is the real reason to visit. Larch & pine forests on cold, north-facing slopes provide plenty of thrills (& spills), as do the ample alpine ridges & meadows on the warmer southerly aspects. The longest off-piste descents in the resorts are up to 800m vertical, or more if climbing peaks in the vast backcountry. The region is known for its powder during ‘retour d'est’ weather events, so expect a few local freeriders to share your Queyras ski experience!
Given the ridiculously cheap lift ass prices, the ski lifts of the Queyras are predictably of the aged variety. Expect low numbers of chairlifts & high number of surface lifts. Snowriders used to heated seats in gondolas and high-speed hooded 6-seater chairs should apply elsewhere!
See here for the Queyras ski region map.
Ski Resorts of the Queyras
The largest & highest of the 4 Queyras ski areas is Molines-en-Queyras/Saint Véran. Visitors are greeted by a quality skiable vertical of 1,090m from the highest lifted point of 2,830m altitude. The 34km of piste trails are best suited to beginner & intermediates, but for powder hounds, the combination of wide open & forested, plus gentle, and steep off-piste options on both north & south aspects are the true appeal of the resort.
See here for the Molines-en-Queyras / St Veran ski trail map.
Abriès (a.k.a. Abriès-Ristolas) offers the region’s second longest lifted skiable vertical of 900m. Away from the predominantly intermediate rated pistes, of particular interest to purveyors of freeride powder is the broad north-aspect forested terrain down to the hamlet of Valpreveyre from the 2,450m summit of Gilly. Blissful backcountry extends all around from Valpreveyre. Sunnier freeride descents are possible through mixed open & forested terrain down to Ristolas.
See here for the Abries-Ristolas ski trail map.
Ceillac provides an ample skiable vertical of 760m, plus diverse off-piste tree-skiing & technical descents on sunny or shaded aspects from the ridge that runs down from the 2,460m Coste Belle. The lifts provide wonderful access to several of the region’s best backcountry peaks.
See here for the Ceillac ski trail map.
Arvieux is the smallest of the Queyras resorts but still presents several tasty morsels for visitors. The 400m skiable vertical is all sheltered & forest lined, with the lower portion of the resort being the best in region for novices putting in their first turns.
See here for the Arvieux ski trail map.
More information about each Queyras ski resort will come following our visit next winter.
Lift Passes
Lift tickets in the Queyras come in many permutations, but one thing is certain, they are all easy on the wallet (or credit card) and provide superb value. A wonderfully affordable Queyras pass valid in all four ski areas is available for 2 days or more. Individual resorts have their own day passes (Arvieux & Molines-Saint Véran) or combine their day passes with other areas (Abries & Ceillac). The lift pass here are as cheap as one can get in western Europe …….. just the way us tight-arse powder junkies like it!
Where is Queyras France?
The Queyras ski region is in the Hautes Alpes of south-east of France, north of Marseilles & south of the vast Via Lattea international ski resort. Close to the Italian border, the valley of the Queyras is only accessible via the town of Guillestre in winter, as the high alpine Col Agnel pass into Italia is closed until late Spring. The largest village in the Queyras valley is the centrally located Aiguilles, but with a permanent population of less than 450, the term ‘largest’ is relative!
By road, Aiguilles in the Queyras is 306km (4hr) south of Geneva, 310km (4hr) west of Milan & 174km (2¾hr) west of Turin. The Mediterranean coastal city of Marseilles is 259km (3hr) to the south & makes an interesting starting point for a ski trip.
Gateway airports for international travelers are Milan (MXP),Geneva (GVA) & even Lyon St Expury (LYS). Due to the proximity of the TGV train line in nearby Oulx, Paris (CDG) is an option as well. The regional airports of Turin (TRN) & Marseilles (MRS) are options for travelers from UK & European flight origins.
The region can be accessed by train to the Montdauphin-Guillestre SNCF station via Gap (from Grenoble), Briançon or Marseilles. Buses to the various ski resorts leave directly from the station, but services are relatively limited. Take the S24 bus to Ceillac, S26 to Arvieux, S27 to Molines/St Veran and the S28 to Abries-Ristolas. All routes take between 45min & 1¼hr to the furthest parts of the valley. Specific bus shuttles make the journey from the TGV stations in Oulx and Marseilles, but usually only on weekends (Saturdays!).
Search & book here for train tickets to Mont Dauphin - Guillestre in the Queyras.
Whilst we love the idea of using public transport (& endorse it wherever possible), international guests visiting the Queyras are probably best using a private transfer, then local buses, or a rental car direct from the airport. Be wary of any car rentals from Italy & France as they often are NOT winterised. Ensure they at least have snow-chains, but preferably winter tyres.
Once in the valley, a free local bus network connects all the ski areas and villages, but regularity may be an issue for anyone in a hurry! Perhaps this is a valley where one needs to relax, take it all in and go slow.
For hints, tips & warnings about getting to French ski resorts in winter, see our Travel in France page.
Queyras Accommodation
The Queyras is loaded with authentic French mountain villages providing the sort of ski holiday lodgings sorely missing in some of the more developed nearby ski resorts. All the local villages are in marvellous locations surrounded by rugged mountains and come with the requisite plethora of tight winding lanes, gorgeous stone buildings and even a looming castle - Château Queyras. No matter where one stays, all the ski areas are within a 20min drive.
Search & book here for all Queyras ski accommodation.
Amongst all the gorgeousness of the local villages, one of the best is Saint-Véran. The highest elevation ski resort village in the region (and one of the highest in Europe!), it is at an altitude of 2,045m and positioned perfectly on the sunny south-aspect slopes of Pic de Château Renard. A full range of accommodations are available at Saint Veran, including the fantastic Hotel & Spa L'Alta Peyra and affordable Hotel Les Chalets du Villard.
At Molines en Queyras, the authentic theme continues, albeit a short drive from the ski lifts. The exception is just up the road at the Molines-en-Queyras resort base of Clot la Chalp (not to be confused with the nearby, but lower, hamlet of La Chalp!). Clot-la-Chalp has some of the best located ski-in ski-out lodgings in the region, i.e. the Hotel Spa L'Equipe. Molines-en-Queyras has a small number of superb hotel & resort-chalet lodging options.
The largest village in the valley is the centrally located Aiguilles. Aside from a full range of services, Aiguilles also has a couple of excellent lodging options including the hidden gem of Hotel Yak Avenir.
At the top of the valley, Abriès is one of the larger & livelier towns in the region (lively being a relative term!). The ski lifts are a few hundred metres on the edge of town. Accommodations at Abries are in hotel-apartments & holiday houses. Further up the road, Ristolas is a quiet outpost with no services but a few basic hotel style accommodations amongst the rural buildings.
The ski area near Arvieux has accommodation located right at the ski lifts in a hamlet called La Chalp. Further along the road, a collection of chalets called Brunissard usually has a few houses available for holiday rental. The pleasant village of Arvieux is 2km away from the ski lifts, providing a sublimely peaceful getaway.
For Ceillac ski area, the village of the same name is 2km from the ski lifts. The village is in a broader valley than others in the Queyras, and away from the old village centre, has a more modern, spacious feel than the other villages in the region. Accommodations in Ceillac are available near the centre of town, on the outskirts in modern chalets, or near the ski lift base.
Ski Rentals, Lessons & Guiding
Ski rentals are available throughout the Queyras ski region in Abries, Ceillac & Molines-en-Queyras via our local partners. Receive a discount when you search & book via our Queyras Ski & Snowboard Rental page.
[AdListings Filter="Queyras Guiding"]
If you need a new outfit for your ski trip comprising modern jacket, pants, gloves & goggles, the Queyras ski region is served by our local partner ski clothing rental company, Ski Chic. Order online & your ski outfit is delivered direct to your accommodation at the resort.
[AdListings Filter="Meribel Ski Rentals Clothing"]
Review
The Powderhounds will review Queyras & its four ski resorts next season. Stay tuned for our sparkling repartee, new photos & insights.
See how the European ski resorts compare on the Europe ski resort ratings page.
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