It is easy to underestimate the ski terrain available at a ski resort. Disentis is a case in point. At first glance a smallish intermediate piste skiers hill, the skiable vertical & accessible freeride terrain is in fact vast.
We were initially disappointed to find out the new cable car linking Sedrun to Disentis ski resort hadn’t been completed in time for the 18/19 season, scotching the plan to see how easy it is to link all the ski resorts (Disentis-Sedrun-Dieni-Oberalppass-Andermatt-Gensstock) in one morning by ski & lift (even though it would still have required a train link from Sedrun to the lifts at Dieni). Perhaps next time! Instead we spent the whole day checking out all the fascinating terrain potential that Disentis has to offer.
Essentially two high alpine valleys, Disentis is a quiet intermediate piste skiers delight & the source of a plethora of backcountry ski touring routes & freeride terrain. Its 60km+ of piste trails feel easy to ski & they don’t keep an advanced rider’s attention for too long – even at warp factor 10 (because you have them all to yourself!). On a powder day, the off-piste is another matter altogether.
In either alpine bowl, each of the two upper T-bars serve only low intermediate & beginner groomers, but more importantly act as the conduit for ski tourers to access the upper ridges, glaciers & valleys beyond – in particular Val Strem which descends into Sedrun plus Vals Gronda, Pintga & Segnas which descend back into Disentis & S.Catrina. On a safe powder day these descents provide loads of long freerdie options.
It is possible to ski the entire vertical of 1600m+ on-piste from the top T-bar all the way down to the S.Catrina base – a satisfying journey of over 8km. Similarly, the entire vertical can be done off-piste via the Val Segnas or other valley alternatives. For many, a guide may be useful to get the most out of the journey & particularly to get the exits right.
The on-mountain food & drink options are disappointingly limited, but the main restaurant & bar at Caischavedra (top of the cable car) is a worthy location.
The town of Disentis is dominated by the historic Abbey (or Kloster), a short bus ride away from the resort base. The nearest train station is Acla da Fontauna, a 5min leg-stretching walk to the cable car in Acletta/S.Catrina. Being on the Andermatt – Disentis/Mustèr line makes getting around a synch. The trains are free for lift pass holders and Andermatt Sedrun lift passes can include Disentis.
All resort base facilities were being renewed during our visit & whilst not all was complete (like the cable car down to Sedrun)(Editors note - open now!), everything was looking fresh. New accommodation in the form of the Catrina Resort Apartments & Hostel, complete with a large Coop supermarket for easy self-catering, is a boon for the base area. Whilst staying at the resort may be quiet in the evenings, it is a better value option than other locations at Sedrun-Dieni or Andermatt. Anyone wanting a bit more after ski action should stay & play in Andermatt but enjoy a few afternoon train rides in the après ski bar carriage on the way home from Disentis.
Disentis is the perfect low-key accoutrement to the wonderful Andermatt. Make sure you check it out when in the area.