Polar opposite to the Powderhounds Gem of La Norma is the sun-soaked Aussois (we think its pronounced more like Oss-wa, but are prepared to be corrected) . Polar opposites in several ways. They are on opposite sides of the valley, Aussois is on a high south-aspect broad terrace receiving a full day’s sunshine, whereas La Norma is deep in shade most of the day. Aussois is a real village with a ski resort built around it, whereas La Norma is more of a manufactured (but still nice) resort village. La Norma’s snow quality last all day & beyond, but Aussois (sadly) the snow can get baked by the big orb in the sky. And so it goes. How cool though having such wonderful opposites …………. just opposite each other! One thing they are not opposites in is the stupendous mountain scenery – enough of a reason to visit on a clear day.
We love that Aussois is one of the few French Alps ski resorts only 15min drive off a motorway, putting it in the same class as La Norma & Valfrejus. Surprising that not more people know of them.
The first impression of Aussois is that it clearly caters to families (smart business plan) & as such is quite popular when the sun comes out. Given that ‘popular’ in the Haute Maurienne valley means you may stand in a lift line for a whole 30 seconds, stress levels remain low. Even though the wind had clearly impacted the upper mountain during the night, the groomers were in top condition. The on-piste trails are all great, with the exception of the bottom end of the Plan Sec lift, which appeared to have no plan at all. Novices will love the base area & long Cotes trail. Beginners will enjoy the entire front-side of the mountain & intermediates will enjoy everything! In low visibility the upper mountain would be challenging.
Our proclivities naturally push us into testing a resort’s off-piste & backcountry potential, and in this, Aussois has much to offer. Scoping it out from across the valley at La Norma a few days earlier, the large sector to the east of the main ski runs looked sweet. The reality was exactly that. Fresh snow the day before made the snowpack a little sketchy early with numerous avalanches evident. But as the day wore on, we deemed it safe to head out for a look. It is possible we may have ducked a few ropes but let’s just say it was worth it. Balmes is a long lovely treat that eventually links up with the Côtes trail via a circuitous route. Despite the wind impacted conditions in the resort proper, we joyously harvested shin deep powder up high, loads of face-shots mid-mountain & some fresh creamy turns down low. The exit would be potentially hellish on a snow board, but anyone on a snowboard heading out there is usually doing so with ‘eyes wide open’. Variations on the same theme would easily fill a day, but as the snow turned into Spring-like snot on the bottom half of the mountain (it was Spring after all) we headed back into the resort in search of nourishment.
Three quality on-mountain eateries provide shelter and sustenance. The best is Montana near the top of the Grand Jeu lift. Higher up the mountain & buried in snow is the more rustic & interesting Chalet de l’Armoise. Simple but delicious food, a full bar, well-priced, friendly service & spanking views – what more could one ask for?
Aussois old town centre is a typical mountain village cluster of buildings with few nice bars and restaurants, the usual small village shops (bakery, market, post), one hotel, a few gite and the obligatory stone church with steeple plus occasional street market. Most resort accommodation starts above the village. Tastefully done, it leads up to the main car park and a modern 6er chair which whisks one up to the real action above 2100m elevation. The car park gets a nomination for the best ski-out ski-in car-park in the world. – something we don’t give out lightly! At the 1500m elevation base are two novice tows, an infants centre & ticket office which sells the ridiculously cheap lift passes (at €32 for a day may as well be given for free). Rental shops are clustered immediately below the ski base and include a ski-in Skiset. A few cafes and bars complete the setting amongst the distinctly non-French tastefully done apartment buildings. Quite pleasant on a sunny winter’s day.
For a blue-sky day diversion, Aussois is definitely worth a visit. If learning to ski/board & wanting to enjoy a real French Alps town in stunning surrounds but without the crowds, Aussois is an even better bet. If you want to bring a few friends & family that do not ski or board, Aussois has an excellent toboggan & winter walking trail network to keep them occupied. Oh, and if you enjoy early 18th century forts, the local area is replete with them, adding another element to an already fabulous location.
You can see our thoughts on the pros and cons on the Aussois overview page and also see our European ski resort ratings regarding how we score it compared to other skiing areas.
