Brevent Flegere is a tough place to ski on a sunny day. One is continuously distracted by the jaw-dropping views; which is a shame, because the ski terrain deserves one's full attention. To make matters worse, the resort has several of the best après ski locations (in the world?) to further distract one from the business of sliding on snow.
We were very pleasantly surprised by the quality of skiing at Brevent Flegere. The Flegere ski area is accessed via a soon to be replaced cable car from the valley at Le Praz. Access from Chamonix, Argentiere or Le Tour is best via the free ski bus, however there is a car park with limited spaces at the base of the cable car (if you must!). Interconnected with Brevent via the linking Maison cable car, the two areas are relatively similar in terrain, aspect, vertical & views. Of the two, Brevent’s access from the valley via the gondola near Chamonix is superior, but it also attracts more people for that very reason. (Flegere gets a new efficient gondola from season 19/20 which will increase its appeal.)
Aside from the valley trails, all the ski terrain is sunny, south facing & predominately above tree line. The diversity of ski trails will please the vast majority of skiers but particularly intermediates. Lift infrastructure is much better than many nay-sayers would have one believe. Brevent has the steeper terrain, & everyone happy to ski a black run should take the Brevent cable car up to the peak at 2525m for a cheeky slide down. Best overall terrain is off the Cornu chair. Earlier in the day is better than later (usually!). Snowboarders may not enjoy some of the connections particularly on a warm day if the snow gets baked & slows down. Off-piste & freeride is plentiful. Finding the big consistent fall line runs requires a bit of knowledge & visibility but is easy enough. More adventurous riders prepared to hike will be rewarded for their efforts at Brevent Flegere.
An excellent beginner & family ski area is set below Flegere’s Trappe chairlift. The chairlift is tediously slow, but tremendously child friendly. The best intermediate run at Flegere is the wonderful La Chenal which winds its way down fabulously from the high Index chair toward the link with Brevent.
Chamonix’s best sunny day mountain dining venues are here as well, intriguingly right next to a couple of Chamonix’s worst fast food outlets. At La Flégère, the l'Adret de la Flégère restaurant has magnificent indoor & outdoor dining with glorious food & views over the peaks & valleys. At Plan Praz overlooking the cable car station up to Le Brévent summit, La Bergerie de Plan Praz serves up an absolute storm with unparalleled views of Chamonix & the Mont Blanc massif. If you can’t get a seat, buy a drink and soak up the views from the nearby viewing platforms – one of the best après ski spots we have ever come across (until we experience the next one of course). Not a crass dance party type après, just fabulous views, drinks, nibbles, seats & some background tunes. Delightful.
At the end of the day, unless the snow has been in stellar condition all the way down in Chamonix, avoid the valley trails. Download is best, unless of course you don’t care about your skis or limbs! Scope them out form the gondolas on the way up. If the snow is in good nick, head down the valley trails early.
The beauty of a Brevent download is the quick stroll or bus ride into the heart of the real afternoon action in Cham. See how long you can stay out in your ski boots. Enjoy. We did!
An activity worthy of consideration on a clear day is a paragliding descent from Plan Praz at Brevent. There isn’t a more spectacular place to do it as easily in Europe. Afternoon thermals (of the wind variety) rise from the valley allowing for ascents high above the take-off point & providing exceptional views of the Mont Blanc glaciers & the Aiguille du Midi. A slow descent brings you to near the gondola base in Chamonix.
