There are many facets to the Kitzbuhel and the broader Kitzski resort, and whilst we have skied the main sector a few times, for reasons too mundane to bore you with, never made it to the Pass (Paβ) Thurn sector ........ until now. We experienced a fabulous few stormy mid-week January days in the sector in 2022 and finally had real in-depth exploration in and around Pass Thurn. We had such a great time here in vile weather that we were tempted to title this review 'Feral Weather + Deep Snow = Pass Thurn Excellence'.
On the first day we started at the Hollersbach base in the Pinzgau valley. The drive is as simple as it can ever be to a ski resort – flat, clear, lots of parking (read, empty car park). First in the car park, first on the Panoramabahn Kitzbüheler Alpen gondola (which travelled incredibly slowly in strong winds from the valley (807m) via the mid-station at Brietmoos (1,231m) to the peak of Resterkogel (1,894m). At the top, we were greeted by high winds, cold temps, light snow & zero other skiers. In fact, it felt as though we had our own private ski resort for the first two hours of the morning. And to top it off the wind and light snow had conspired to make the off-piste eminently skiable and in places, positively delightful. Does it get any more glorious at a major world class ski resort! It didn’t matter that the lifts linking to Jochberg & the 3-S bahn were closed due to wind. We had a wonderful time.
The key to the off-piste terrain in this sector of Kitzski is the number 76 trail. It provides return access to the many lifts lining the alpine zone, as well as the G1 Resterhöhe chairlift from Pass Thurn. The best terrain is easily accessed below the blue trails 70b, 71b & 72c. Not huge verticals, but just fun, well-pitched freeride terrain, and totally devoid of humans on this cold January day.
The final 630m vertical from Resterkogel back down to Breitmoos is a delight either on or off-piste. Two après ski bars are along the way if that way inclined (Toni Alm and the more spartan Barfeld).
Turns out the first day was mere reconnaissance for a real powder day a few mornings later in the week. Wanting to avoid the long down time riding the gondola up from Hollersbach, we went straight up to Pass Thurn by road. First car in the car park and first chair on a 30 to 40cm powder day. Glorious.
Despite bitter cold and howling winds, we skied unsullied deep powder laps for as long as our legs could muster. We came across one other group of 3 skiing the expansive off-piste terrain, and that was all! In the afternoon, the rest of the crew skied across to Kitzbuhel via the 3-S, whilst I drove the vehicle there.
Wandering through the old town centre of Kitzbühel was very different to previous visits. Covid, meant no après ski, mask wearing even outside in the main square and a sullen feeling all over. Not the way we planned to finish such an epic pow day, but such was travel at that time. Funny that nearby Zell am See (in Salzburgerland) was still pumping after-hours compared to Kitzbuhel (in Tirol).
On this trip we stayed in a fabulously priced modern 2-bedroom in the small hamlet of Pirtendorf near Mittersill. Mittersill provides all the shops and services one could ask for, and the location is great for an exploration of the many great local resorts including Zell am See and Kitzsteinhorn.
We could not believe how few people were skiing here in mid-January. Riding 6 and 8-seater chairs with no one else on the entire line is odd, but sooo satisfying. Sure it meant braving some fierce weather, but any true powder hound relishes the extremes and this was no exception. Kitzbuehel and Kitzski is a fantastic ski area when the crowds are low, we highly recommend checking it out in the quieter months of winter.
Our visit to Kitzbühel in the stellar 2018/19 season during the mid Feb peak season saw a depressingly steady stream of 'liquid sunshine' (rain) in the village. At an elevation of less than 800m, this is not generally cause for concern, but no one likes rain in a ski resort in February (unless you are in Australia instead of Austria!). Fortified by a delicious dinner of venison & a shot of Wildschönau Krautinger schnapps (made from turnips, it comes with a decidedly confrontational scent & a taste that will challenge most), we slept well, ready for the morning’s onslaught.
The next morning dawned gloriously & a surprisingly excellent powder day in the upper half of the resort ensued. As it was a blue-sky Saturday, we found the piste trails to be busy by 10am, but they are wide enough to be tolerable. Lift lines were long & tetchy but moved swiftly thanks to the plethora of 6 & 8-seater chairs in the resort. A local referred to the lift line anarchy as ‘active queuing’ – a phenomenon common to many large European ski resorts in peak season. A line of 12 people across trying to squeeze through a 4 or 6-person gate is always doomed to have its issues & busy resorts like Kitzbuhel need to take a leaf out of the US, Canadian or Australian ski resorts book about how to effectively manage lift queues.
The singularly most pleasing surprise was that there was only minor competition for fresh tracks in the powder. It didn't take too much imagination to find some untracked powder, even after lunch.
Another great surprise was the quality & price of lunch at the excellent Melkalm mountain hut/restaurant. At the end of the day (or before it if you like), après ski is to a world's best standard - as expected of any great Austrian ski resort.
We only skied the Kitzbuhel - Kirchberg sector of the resort (less than half of the total) & will return to ski the rest later in the season. We understand other parts of the resort are alot quieter.
Like any ski resort, one can pay a premium for everything & Kitzbuhel is no exception. And like every ski resort there are also loads of great value options to suit every visitor’s needs. The village of Kitzbuhel is the most expensive location to stay. Next door, Kirchberg in Tirol offers better value & availability, plus it could be argued Kirchberg has the best lift access to the main ski area. Some awesome on-mountain hotels & 'huts' provide first tracks.
Often misrepresented as a playground of the wealthy, Kitzbuhel is accessible to all & should be experienced at least once in every snow lover's lifetime. It may suffer a little from "altitude deficit" in some winters & the crowds in peak season will test the patience of any non-European caught in its jostling lift queues, but Kitzbuhel delivers on most levels.
We had an awesome time at Kitzbuehel. We are sure you will too. The same rules apply as in all BIG ski resorts – ski midweek, get up early, get in front of the pack & reap the harvest!
