Made a flying visit to Bad Gastein whilst on a road trip across Austria. Our previous visit to the town was in late March a few seasons ago, and even though there was fresh snow across the mountains, the valleys were green. This time in mid-January, it was beautifully clear & cold, with natural snow from top to bottom.

A fantastic place for an extended ski holiday, the terrain, lifts & infrastructure are absolute first class. The diversity from the freeride terrain of Sportgastein, the big mountain skiing above Bad Gastein on Stubnerkogel and Schlossalm plus the family friendly Dorfgastein provide plenty enough variety for an extended stay. The train and bus connections make getting around easy, allowing a visit without a rental car.

The bemusing part of Bad Gastein is the 'old town' with its numerous 'Grand Hotels'. Cold, shaded & gloomy in mid-winter, the impressive waterfall crashing through its centre provides the only activity in an otherwise deserted part of the town. Buildings are derelict and awaiting renovation ........ or demolition! There are signs of renewal, but it will be a few years off yet. We suggest staying at the Hotel Goethehof - a fantastic place to stay & eat, located in the centre of Bad Gastein, just across from the train station and Stubnerkogel valley station.

When the snow is fresh and the temperatures cold, Gastein has something for every powder hound & groomer hound alike!

Aside from carrying some knowledge of the spa town traditions & past glories of Bad Gastein, we arrived in the Gasteinertal with very few expectations. Our visit was in late March & whilst it was green in the lower valleys, a good drop of fresh snow covered the mountains above 1200m. With a solid snow base still on the ground, the fresh snow was a wonderful surprise, adding to a ski resort full of wonderful surprises.

We took the early morning car train from the south, loading up at Mallnitz in short order for the 15min transit through the mountain to Bahnhof Böckstein, a few km from Bad Gastein. Such a grand way to arrive at a ski resort! Free parking at the shiny new Stubnerkogel car park in the heart of Bad Gastein was a wonderful surprise. Extremely low crowds on a clear(ish) powder day was another wonderful surprise (you may note a theme here!).

The combined Bad Gastein – Bad Hofgastein is the heart of the resort. The lift infrastructure is first class. New gondolas & base terminals with all the requisite services & facilities plus integration with parking & public transport make the start of the day a dream. The 1440m skiable vertical on the Bad Hofgastein side is a real skier’s treat. There is everything for everyone. The off-piste trees into Angertal are sensational, as is the opposite side up to the Stubnerkogel. Some excellent mountain restaurants & non -ski activities like a high-altitude suspension bridge and lookouts round out a terrific ski & snow experience – even at the end of the season. Such a wonderful surprise! The area’s only fault is that it isn’t lift connected to the two other main ski zones. But that’s truly quibbling as there is enough free public transport to get the job done easily if required.

Driving back through Böckstein and onto the Gasteiner Apenstraße to Sportgastein is illuminating. After showing our valid ski passes at a toll booth (costs otherwise!) the road transits a lengthy tunnel before emerging out into a stunningly beautiful alpine valley surrounded by high mountains & wearing a full, deep winter mantle – a wonderful surprise! Sportgastein is in a world apart from the other Gastein ski areas. The high base & summit provide superior snow quality & quantity, but in austere surrounds. No accommodation, just the lift base & attached facilities, a separate bar-restaurant, a large car park & a broad valley perfect for the myriad of cross-country ski trails & winter walking paths etched on its surface.

The skiing at Sportgastein is outstanding & a wonderful surprise! Over 1100m vertical, there are well-spaced trees down low, a few top to bottom groomers & a broad top to bottom off-piste. At the Kreuzkogel summit (2686m), access to countless north-aspect freeride routes down towards Böckstein are available & appear deliciously good. We ran out of time to do them, but they look to be Austrian skiing at its absolute finest. The return to Sportgastein or Bad Gastein is by free ski bus at the exit points on the road some 1400 vertical metres down.

The town of Bad Gastein is full of intrigue. From the massive waterfall running through its centre to the myriad grand hotels sprouting from the sides of the valley, it is one the strangest ski resort villages we have ever encountered. But we mean strange in a good way. This strange includes that it is quirky, different, visually impressive & challenging all at once. We adored it! Plenty to do and see too. Thermal baths are everywhere, loads of bars & restaurants, some good shopping opportunities, history & walking.

Failed to ski Dorfgastein on this trip. Whilst we don’t require any encouragement to return to this magnificent ski valley, the need to ski Dorfgastein will be our excuse! We expect it be as wonderfully surprising as the rest of the valley.

We would recommend Gastein to anyone that wants to ski a world class resort with a strong local identity & traditions, plus loads of wonderful surprises. In other words, we recommend it to everyone! Come to Gastein, hit the slopes & step on the gas for a seriously good ride.